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Archive for the ‘Recipes’ Category

It’s the 14th July–Bastille Day.

Anniversary of the storming of the Bastille Prison in 1789–the start of the French Revolution.

In Paris, the Presidents of France and the US are also commemorating another momentous event–America’s entry into the First World War in 1917.

There’ll be military parades and firework displays all over France; there were fireworks in Lautrec last night.

It’s busy, busy–out there.

Here in a quieter corner of Southwest France, it’s simply summer and the living is easy; the mornings are cool and the cats are lying around.

The first figs–les figues fleurs–are dropping and making a mess in the courtyard.

Time to slow down and count one’s blessings.

Time to plan a lunch for the Garlic Festival–in the first week of August.

Time to consult the multitude of cookbooks on the shelves in the larder.

Cookbooks are perched on tables and chairs and falling off dressers.

Experiments are under way in the kitchen–and food is spilling out of the fridge.

Some cookery books one buys on a whim and after the initial thumb-through, sit unused, gathering dust.

Until moments of calm like this–when a glance at the shelves finds books that I had forgotten were there.

Honey from a Weed is one such.

Written in the 1980s by Patience Gray, it is one of those “old fashioned” cookbooks–no photos, just beautiful sketches telling everyday stories–discursive, setting the recipes against a backdrop of place and personal experience.

This wonderful book is the story of the artist/writer’s life in three Mediterranean locations over years living with her “mystery” partner, simply referred to as “The Sculptor“.

The locations are all in places where marble is quarried.

In Catalonia, in Spain, on the Greek island of Naxos and most famously in Carrarra in Tuscany–where Michelangelo once quarried his stone.

I am reading her cookbook with relish this summer.

For me, here’s a perfect example of how to write a recipe.

In a few lines it manages to tell us the what and the how–and finish nicely describing the natural emergence of a sauce that makes the mouth water.

(Ask the fishmonger to do the middle paragraph!).

 

 

 

 

 

 

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We are having Aubergine Tortino for lunch.

Grilled aubergine slices baked in a tomato sauce, parmesan cheese and egg base.

A savory cake.

A small salad would cut the richness–but alas, there is no lettuce in the fridge.

However there is an overload of parsley.

I bought a ridiculous amount last Saturday anticipating making lots of green sauce for the chicken at the Independence Day lunch party. It’s still fresh in the fridge. I have a eureka moment…!

Parsley Salad!

Check the Internet for hints–but the Internet is down–as it often is in rural France.

Check my cookbook library and–BINGO! Riverford Farm’s second cookbook delivers.

Here’s my version:

In a pretty bowl mix:

  • 50gms flat leaf parsley–roughly chopped (i.e. left a bit leafy)
  • 50gms red onion–chopped finely
  • 6 anchovy fillets–roughly chopped
  • 2 tbs capers–left whole
  • 1 tomato–skinned, seeded and chopped

 

For the vinaigrette:

  • 1 tbs red wine vinegar,
  • 4tbs olive oil
  • a pinch of black pepper
  • (no salt–as I’m using the anchovies, which are already salty; try feta if you don’t like anchovies)

Just before you eat:

With two forks and a light hand mix the contents of the bowl together.

The aim is to keep the delicate salad from getting soggy.

At the last moment add three spoonfuls of the vinaigrette to the bowl and again lightly fluff up the contents of the salad.

(Should you need more dressing, you have extra to hand.)

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Endive, walnut, sweet onion, radish, black olives, orange and feta salad

for 6/8

This wonderful spring salad–a perfect starter to the Easter meal–is from my first cook book, Delicious Dishes for Diabetics.

Beautiful to look at, it raises the spirits and whets the appetite.

Endive! There’s a stall in Castres market that sells only these seasonal white torpedoes. They are sweeter than the industrially grown ones available all the year round.

I buy more than I need for the salad–we’ll have them slow-roasted another day.

It’s an assembly job–and fun to do…

  • Slice off the base of three endive–this will make it easier to pick off the individual spear like leaves.
  • Dry roast walnuts—about 5oz  (a handful)– in a pan on top of the hob.
  • Slice half a medium, sweet red onion as finely as possible.
  • Slice a handful of radishes.
  • Stone about 10 black olives and cut in half.
  • Peel two juicy oranges by slicing off the top with a sharp knife and gingerly cut down through the peel top to bottom without cutting into the flesh. When you have completed the sphere–pull back the peel in each segment (very satisfying!)–and hey, presto! You have a neatly peeled orange. Now slice the orange horizontally into thick-ish pieces.
  • Dice 4oz Feta cheese.
  • Roughly chop a handful of parsley (optional)

Next make the vinaigrette for the salad:

  • In a small screw top bottle put some freshly-grated pepper and a few pinches of salt.
  • Add a tablespoon of red wine vinegar and 4 tbs olive oil.
  • Shake it all about–and set aside.
  • Now assemble the salad on a large platter that will show it off well (before you spoil it, by turning it all over in the vinaigrette).

This is how I arrange things:

  • Define the arena by arranging spears round the bowl with the tips upward facing.
  • Slice additional spears into twos or threes and scatter in the bottom of the bowl.
  • Arrange the orange slices nicely over these.
  • Scatter the sliced onion and radish over the orange and add the black olives.
  • Scatter the feta round the bowl and finish with the walnuts and the parsley.
  • Pour over the vinaigrette (after shaking it again) and present the result to the table before turning everything over–ruthlessly.
  • We finished it at the lunch with several of the guests having seconds.

The rest of the menu for the

***

BIRTHDAY LUNCH

Roast leg of lamb with White Bean Gratin

Slow-roasted Tomatoes with rosemary and garlic

Roast Asparagus Spears

Freshly-made Apple, Mint and Onion Sauce

Milk Gravy

Panacotta —made by Meredith–served with mango, more orange chunks and blueberries

***

All the recipes (except the panacotta!) are in

Mediterranean Cooking for Diabetics.

One of the lunch guests, my old nemesis from Poldark days, Donald Douglas (aka Captain McNeil), decorated eggs for place-settings.

This is Meredith and me:

(Hair clippings provided by Donald’s horse)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Meredith and I travel SOUTH!

A skip and a jump from chez nous–about a two-and-half hour drive.

We are heading for Corneilla-del-Vercola–a handsome, wine-producing village south of Perpignan, not far from the Spanish border.

I have been invited by the members of the local branch of the University of the Third Age to join them for their monthly get together.

On the first Monday of every month the group assembles for a shared meal–with a theme.

A recent event involved them learning how to make a pork pie.

This month was to be a bit different.

Jane, the host for the event, invited everyone in the cooking group to bring something they have prepared from one of my cook books–or this blog!

She says that Type 2 diabetes has an increasing presence among the retirees in the area.

Be that as it may this is some ego-trip and I don’t have to cook!

Jane and her partner Chris live in a prettily painted house on the village square with a magnificent view of the mountains from the loggia of their sitting room.

As the evening progresses the sunlight on the fine brick church across the square turns it a glowing red.

The guests (twenty of them plus us two) start arriving at 7pm and it’s clear from the animated chatter that the group s’entendre bien [gets on together well] and looks forward to these convivial evenings.

Each arrival proprietorially clutches a food box, as they mount the narrow staircase to the sitting room two floors up.

Jane has emailed the list of dishes we are going to be sampling.

Healthy eating/pre diabetic cookery with Robin Ellis

Menu

Nibbles:

Janet’s guacamole & babaganoush dips (Jane & Chris)

My contribution was the black olive tapinade from Delicious Dishes for Diabetics and Mediterranean Cooking for Diabetics.

Starters:
Smoky cauliflower Soup (Morag & Mike)

Chilled Curried apple soup (Lesley and Joe)

Spinach and red onion frittata (Gill & Chris)

Salmon fishcakes (Margaret)

Mains:
Charlotte’s chicken tagine and whole grain rice (Genny & Giles)

Chicken with leek and lemon ( Mike and Morag)
Sausage & bean one pot wonder (Paul Jackson)
Pork loin in balsamic vinegar (Gill, Chris & friends)
Cauliflower & chickpea curry with rice
Asparagus risotto (Derek & Marjorie)

Salads:
Chickpea and cumin salad (Jane & Chris)
Fennel salad (Gill, Chris & friends)
Tomato Salad (Tonia)

Desserts:
Strawberries (Lesley & Joe)
Mango surprise (Marian)
Peanut butter swirl chocolate brownies (Jim)

(Not sure how the Peanut butter swirl chocolate brownies snuck in there–but nobody objected.)

Anticipating the feast,…

After a half hour of anticipation we got stuck in…

The food was delicious (but I would say that!) No, it really was!

The only problem was knowing when to stop–we were spoilt for choice on a laden table.

Thanks everyone–for the very fine effort!

And no one asked a single question about POLDARK!!

I’m rewarded with a box at the end of the evening–excellent wine from the village and some fine local olive oil.

Too kind!

As the French say–on s’est regalé  (we’ve enjoyed them very much!).

Next day we set off further south–for Spain and ancient Catalonia–where the Romans trod before us.

Heading for Cadaqués–where Salvador Dali built the house of his fantasies.

The heart of ancient Catalonia.

Hasta la vista!

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Planned this post for Monday–but have been so overwhelmed by workmen in the house this week, it got delayed….

I had forgotten how delicious this spicy cauliflower dish is–and how easy to do.

Perfect supper material–especially when one is feeling slightly invaded with the daily presence of decorators/painters.

Didier and Jordan could not be bettered as workers and both are delightful, but there’s nowhere left to hide–they are painting all the doors and windows.

Monday’s post

That cauliflower sitting comfortably in the crisper–so unpushy these whey faced fellows–gets its chance tonight.

Retrieving it from obscurity saves my bacon.

Mondays can be a challenge if I forget to plan for them.

There’s an option to shop of course but I like to maintain Mondays as a marketing free day–I go to four markets a week.

Inspired by a recipe of Madhur Jaffrey–the cookery writer and actress.

for 2--as a main course:

1 medium cauliflower–the head separated into small bite size florets

3 tablespoons olive oil

1/2 teaspoon fennel seeds

1 teaspoon black mustard seeds

2 cloves of garlic–chopped fine

1/4 teaspoon turmeric

1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper

1 teaspoon salt

  • Soak the cauliflower in water for a half hour–then drain the florets.
  • Heat the oil in a pan large enough to hold the florets in a single layer.
  • Add the fennel and mustard seeds and sauté until they start popping.
  • Add the turmeric and the cayenne.
  • Add the garlic to the pan and let it colour lightly.
  • Add the drained florets, salt and 3 tablespoons of water.
  • Cover and cook for 10 minutes–or until the cauliflower is almost tender.

Brown basmati rice, red lentil dhal and yogurt sauce accompanied it.

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A bit fanciful to call these CHOPS, though the soft chunkiness gives a similar sensation in the mouth.

The taste is pure cauliflower, which I love.

The egg(s) on top are optional but add to the interest.

  • 1 large cauliflower
  • simple dressing–3tbs olive oil and 1 tbs of red wine vinegar, salt and pepper
  • grated parmesan to sprinkle
  • salt and pepper

Heat the oven to 200c.

Rest the cauliflower base on a chopping board–making sure it’s secure and won’t wobble.

You are cutting top to toe.

With a large knife carefully cut down through the head in roughly one inch wide slices.

Fascinating to see the thick filigree of this beautiful vegetable in cross section.

Cover a shallowing baking tray with foil and brush with oil; arrange the chops on the tray. (You may wish tidy the pieces with a sharp knife, but don’t cut through the little connecting stems.)

Generously brush each chop with the dressing and season with salt and pepper.

Slip the tray in the top of the oven for about 30 minutes.

After about half an hour turn them over–easing them gently off the foil.

Top with a generous sprinkling of grated parmesan.

Pop the tray back into the oven for about another 15 minutes.

Wise to check during both oven sessions–as the thickness of the slices will vary.

Serve with a poached or fried egg and green salad.

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I’m always on the look-out for one-potters–the sheer convenience of them attracts.

This I found the other day on a printed sheet stuffed behind some recipe books.

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Treasure!

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Delicious. Eureka!

This is the classic mix of pork and beans.

Here the meat is in small sausage shape; these chipolatas happily bob along in the tomato and bean base for 45 minutes as it slowly thickens up, concentrating the smoky taste.

There is a certain amount of building work to do before you leave the pot to get on with it.

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  • 1lb small sausages– like chipolatas
  • 2 tbs olive oil
  • 1 clove garlic–peeled and chopped
  • 1 carrot–peeled and chopped small
  • 1 leek –carefully cleaned and sliced thin
  • 1 stick celery–chopped small
  • 1 tin [can] tomatoes–chopped with the juice
  • 1 tin [can] or (better still) bottle white beans–drained
  • 1 tsp smoked sweet paprika
  • 2 bay leaves
  • 1 pint water
  • salt and pepper

In the medium casserole in which you cook the whole dish heat a tablespoon of oil and add the sausages.

Sauté them over a medium heat until they are nicely browned.

Take care they don’t leave a burned residue in the pan.

Set them aside.

Add the second tablespoon of oil and the vegetables–celery, leek, carrot and garlic

Sweat the veg until tender–about ten minutes.

Add the tomatoes, paprika and mix thoroughly before adding the beans, sausages and water. Add the bay leaves.

Combine everything with care and bring to a simmer.

Cook for about 45 minutes, turning from time to time as the sauce thickens and the smoky deliciousness concentrates.

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Good with some dijon mustard on the side.

Chopped parsley garnish optional.

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