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A warm lentil salad

This satisfying and comforting dish is adapted from Martha Rose Shulman’s idea, spotted recently in The New York Times.

She calls it a salad I guess because it is dressed with a vinaigrette–and an interesting one.

She suggests serving the lentils with roasted winter squash, so I chose pumpkin with different, spicier seasoning (recipe tomorrow!).

I topped the dish off with some plain soft goat’s cheese I’d bought from Frederick, our favourite local chèvre maker, in Castres market on Saturday.

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I like the addition of turmeric to the cooking lentils. It lends them a touch of mystery!

8oz green lentils

1tsp fresh ginger–chopped very fine

1tsp turmeric

1 clove of garlic–peeled

1 small onion–halved

450ml/1 pint water

Combine these ingredients and bring to the boil.

Simmer gently, covered, until the lentils are tender but not mushy.

Drain off any excess water and empty the lentils into a bowl.

Mix the ingredients below together in a bowl in the order shown, leaving aside the parsley and turn this vinaigrette into the warm lentils, taking care not to mush the lentils too much.

Vinaigrette

1 tblsp red wine vinegar

1tsp balsamic vinegar

1tsp Dijon mustard

1tsp cumin powder

3tbsp olive oil

1tbsp walnut oil

salt and pepper

parsley–chopped

Sprinkle the parsley over to finish.

Marc Gayraud–my genial fishmonger in Castres market Tuesdays and Saturdays–was offering some medium size monkfish yesterday morning, at a reasonable price (18 euros the kilo–about $24 a kilo). These two pieces cost about 9 euros.

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I’d been wanting to cook this lightly-spiced dish for ages–and it is relatively simple to do.

Vendu, monsieur! [Sold, sir!]

You can prepare the sauce beforehand and reheat it when you are ready to add the fish. That’s the beauty of it.

A little brown basmati rice and some seasonal green vegetable makes a pretty plate.

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for 3

12oz/300gms monkfish (cleaned)cut crosswise through the cartilage in bite size pieces [or other firm fleshed white fish]

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3 tblspns olive oil

1 onion–chopped

2 cloves garlic–chopped

3 large tinned tomatoes–chopped

½ tsp cayenne pepper

½ tsp smoked paprika (pimenton)

sprigs of parsley and thyme and a bay leaf

1 glass dry white wine

1 tsp salt

10 juicy black olives–stoned and halved

  • Soften the onion in the oil using a sauté pan large enough to hold the monkfish  –about five minutes.

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  • Add the garlic and cook a further three to four minutes.

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  • Add the chopped tomatoes with the spices, herbs and salt.

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  • Cook these gently for a couple of minutes.
  • Add the wine and cook another couple of minutes.
  • This makes the simple base in which to cook the fish.
  • A  few minutes before you want to eat, reheat the sauce and add the olives.
  • Slide the monkfish pieces into the sauce and cook on low heat, covered, for 5 to 10 minutes until the fish is opaque and you can’t wait any longer!

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  • Serve over basmati brown rice with perhaps some steamed broccoli on the side.

Quail are readily available here and increasingly so elsewhere I am hearing.

There’s a light gaminess about them, making a change from chicken and guinea fowl.

There are as many ways to cook a quail as skin a cat–what have I said!!

You can marinade them or stuff them with countless variations of flavors. These mostly take some forethought and time. This way is simpler and quicker.

I do have to snip off their heads here, which used to give me pause. In London I know they are sold headless.

IMG_3640 To spatchcock or spattlecock or butterfly is to remove the backbone of the bird in order to open it up and flattened it out–as you might do a book. This allows the bird to cook more quickly and evenly under the grill. Spatchcocking is an easy and oddly satisfying technique. All you need is a pair of poultry shears or strong scissors and the nerve to try it!

for 2

3 or 4 quail–spatchcocked

  • Hold the quail breast down and cut along each side of the backbone and lift it out.

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  • IMG_3806press apart the resulting gap to flatten the bird.
  • Snip away any bits of fat and gristle still attached to the carcass.
  • rinse the birds thoroughly and pat dry.

3 tablespoons olive oil

4 cloves of garlic–sliced

20+sage leaves–(optional)

salt and pepper

a lemon–quartered

  • Gently sauté the garlic in the oil until it starts to change color.
  • Lift it out with a slotted spoon onto some kitchen paper [paper toweling].
  • Do the same with the sage leaves.
  • Let the oil cool down.
  • One by one, lift the quail by the legs and pass both sides through the oil coating them lightly.
  • Let any surplus oil drip back into the pan before repeating the process.
  • Place them on a shallow oven tray and slide them under the grill.
  • Season well each side.

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  • Cook them about seven minutes each side–depending on their girth. A little crispiness won’t go amiss.
  • Sprinkle with garlic bits, sage (if you’ve used it–I didn’t in this case) and serve with a quartered lemon.

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  • Serve with the green sauce below (optional!)–a simplified winter version (when many herbs are hard to come by) of the green sauce in Delicious Dishes for Diabetics.

Quick green sauce

small bunch of parsley

1 garlic clove–thinly sliced

1 teaspoon capers–chopped

salt--to taste

1 teaspoon Dijon mustard

juice of half a lemon

3 tablespoons olive oil

  • Make a pile of the first five ingredients.

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  • Chop through them until you have a dry version of the sauce

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  • Put this reduced pile in a bowl and add the lemon juice and stir in the mustard.
  • Add the olive oil mixing everything thoroughly.

We ate the quail for lunch with the no-lunch-is-really-lunch-without-them blackened brussel sprouts! IMG_3816

Buddies–reunited!

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“Chickpea”–our friendly bantam–and I get re-acquainted.

He’s keen to know what his American cousins are up to.

“Are they early risers like me and Claude?” (our other cockerel).

“Didn’t see–or HEAR for that matter–too many cockerels in downtown Washington D.C., Chickpea.

Saw a raccoon heading for Dupont Circle at noon!”

“Aah–did you have a good time, though?”

“Dandy, thanks”.

Cock-a-doodle dandy“?

Very funny–Chickpea!

I’ll sing it if you like…?”

“Um–I have to go in and make lunch…”

“Good to have you back.”

“Thanks–good to be back, Chickpea.”

A Lentil Soup

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Iris*, our indomitable hostess in Washington DC, introduced us to this satisfying lentil soup–adapted from a recipe by chef Joan Swensen of Swilly’s in Pullman, WA–perfect for warming the cockles on chilly winter nights. The copious amount of liquid slowly reduces in the long, gentle cooking–thickening the soup and concentrating the taste.

2 tblsps olive oil

1 medium onion, chopped fine

1 stick of celery–chopped fine

1/2 medium green pepper–chopped fine

1 medium carrot–chopped fine

1 large fennel bulb–diced large

4 cloves of garlic–pulped in a mortar with a teaspoon of salt

2 tsp cumin powder

2 tsp curry powder

¾ tsp allspice

1 tsp. cinnamon

1 tsp cayenne pepper

450gms/1lb lentils–pale green flat or Puy (grey-green)

2 pints stock--(I use organic vegetable stock cubes)

4 pints water

1 tin [can] tomatoes (400gms/14oz)–drained and broken up

low/no fat yogurt–a dollop a bowl

fresh coriander or parsley–chopped

salt and pepper

  • Heat the oil in a large casserole over a medium heat.
  • Add the onions, celery, carrot, green pepper, fennel and garlic.
  • Stir well and soften gently for 5 minutes.
  • Add the cumin, curry powder, all spice, cinnamon and cayenne pepper.
  • Cook for a minute, stirring in the spices.
  • Stir in the lentils and tomatoes, then add the stock and water.
  • Bring to the simmer and cook uncovered for 1 hour.
  • Season with salt and pepper.
  • Serve with a dollop of yogurt and a pinch of chopped coriander or parsley in each bowl.

*Iris is President of the pioneering Dupont Circle Village in Washington D.C.

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The Village is a nonprofit neighbourhood programme providing cultural, social and other services to seniors, with the goal of helping them maintain health and independence as they grow older, enabling them to remain in their homes.

http://www.dupontcirclevillage.org

One of the highlights of an eventful week in Washington (i.e. full of events!) was the discovery of these unlikely little delicacies–roasted Brussel Sprouts.

They are all the rage it seems.

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I didn’t need convincing, though I know this vegetable is controversial, often occasioning pursed lips.

Those school meals again, I suspect, to blame for overcooking them to a mush.

Our host, Iris–a fine cook–was already familiar with the technique and gave me the simple recipe.

We had them tonight with quail, simply grilled; inspired by a recipe in a beautiful new book by Caroline Conran called Sud de France–of which, book and recipe, more later)

Blackened Brussel Sprouts
 
450gms/1lb brussel sprouts–outer parts trimmed
3 tablespoons olive oil
salt and pepper
 
Preheat oven to 400F/205C
 
  • Place the sprouts in a bowl and add the olive oil, salt and pepper.

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  • Turn over to allow the oil to coat the sprouts thoroughly.
  • Empty them onto an oiled sheet of foil spread over an oven tray.

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  • Place the tray on the middle shelf of the oven.
  • Roast for 30 to 45 minutes–depending on their size–shaking the pan every ten minutes to brown them evenly.
  • Reduce the heat if necessary to prevent them burning.
  • They should be dark brown, almost black, when done but with a tender green interior.

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  • Adjust the seasoning if necessary.
  • Serve immediately.

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Foxy fishcakes

Just managed to fit in a cooking no-potato fishcakes session on Fox’s Channel 5 here in Washington with host Holly Morris, before we head for the airport.

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Another recipe based on a Nigel Slater recipe. I have always loved fishcakes – must be the comfort food factor kicking in – but these days of course the fact they usually contain 50 per cent potato causes trouble for me as a diabetic.This recipe solves the problem by leaving the potato out! The dill and the grain mustard make the fishcakes special and they sometimes serve as a tasty starter. If you keep them small and cook them quickly, they’ll be crisp and brown on the outside and still succulent inside.

Yogurt sauce

2 x 125 ml pots low-fat yogurt
1 tsp grain mustard
good pinch of chopped dill (from the main bunch) salt

The Fishcakes

400 g/1 lb salmon fillet – skinless and checked for bones

white of an egg
1 tbsp chickpea flour – of course, plain flour works as well

1 tsp grain mustard

juice of 1⁄2 lemon
small bunch of dill – chopped fine salt and pepper (parsley will substitute though dill goes well with the salmon)

2 tbsp olive oil

 

  • Mix all the yogurt sauce ingredients and refrigerate until you are ready to eat.
  • Cut up the salmon fillets in roughly equal-size pieces.
  • Put these in a mixer and pulse three or four times.
  • Avoid working them too much and producing slush at the end.
  • You could just cut them up in small pieces if this suits better.
  • Put the salmon in a bowl.
  • Turn in the egg white and the flour, and then the mustard, lemon juice, and the dill.
  • Season with salt and pepper.
  • It’s a good idea to taste the mix for seasoning at this point – the dill and the salt should come through.
  • Refrigerate if not using immediately.
  • Heat the oil to hot in a frying pan and using a dessertspoon scoop out a dollop and make a ball.
  • Put this carefully in the pan and flatten it gently.
  • Cook on a medium-high flame, crisping and browning the outside while making sure the interior cooks through–about a minute each side, taking care not to burn them.
  • Serve with the mustardy yogurt dipping sauce on the side.

 

Mid-morning and we’re sitting in the cafe of the Barnes and Noble bookstore at 82nd and Broadway in Manhattan.

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I’m on my second single expresso, Meredith is making her cappuccino last.

(We’ll be here later this afternoon for the Pop-Up event at 5pm.)

“Green tea, right?” says the manager to a new arrival, clearly a regular.

He is a jovial cove who runs a friendly coffee bar.

He knows his regulars but serves everyone with the same in-the-moment civility. It makes for a feeling of community–however fleeting–and reminds me of a library in the “old days”–but without the “shhh!” factor!

The tables of coffee lounge/bar are filling up–with mostly single occupation–as people stop by for a mid-morning morale booster.

“Sir, you just dropped your wallet–I didn’t want you to..!”

Thank you so much!” I say to the young woman and we have a moment of unspoken understanding of what it might mean to mislay your wallet in the city.

Everyone is reading or working a computer–with one exception.

We’ve noticed that coffee lounges that offer wi-fi serve some as make-do offices.

The woman behind me chats on her mobile, connecting with a world elsewhere–breaking out of the floating  “fraternity” and distracting me, unaccountably, in a way that the nearby conversation doesn’t.

I move to another table and re-establish  contact with my  temporary ever-changing safe haven.

I’m visting NY and DC soon and planning “Pop-up” book-signings in both

cities.

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Come along, say hello and get your book or DVD signed.

Wed Jan 16th, 5-6pm Barnes & Noble café Broadway & 82nd, Manhattan;

Sat Jan 19, 11-12noon the Café at Kramers Bookstore, Dupont Circle,

Washington D.C.

The bookstores don’t know what is going on (unless they read my blog!). This

is an under-the-radar–so bring your book or order it (or DVD) ahead of time

and bring it with you. There won’t be a pile sitting on the table.

When I woke up this morning Pippa–mother of all cats–was there on the bed as she has been for the last two days. She was at her toilet–conscientiously licking her paw, then wiping her cheeks and ear with it–a built-in flannel [washcloth] so to speak.

It reminded me I hadn’t shaved for two days–I’d been laid up with a “gastro“, which had started at roughly 1.30am on the morning after my birthday.

The only other time I remember being as sick (literally) was the day I was filming the dénouement scene in an episode of Sherlock Holmes. I had a long speech of explanation to deliver to a solemn, suspicious and silent Jeremy Brett, Edward Hardwicke and a very young  Jude Law. I managed the first take without interruption–but had to RUN on the word CUT –and it was a bumpy ride ’til we finished.

Two nights ago at least I had no lines to remember. My timing was better on this occasion! The birthday was over and had been much enjoyed. Meredith gave me an album–cataloguing the story of an eventful year–superb photos mostly taken by her.

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Pippa looking for a photo of herself.

Looking back on my birthday though, there were signs of trouble ahead.

I remember feeling relieved I had planned ahead and prepared the Lamb Tagine (see recipe below) the day before. That left the broccoli starter and the bulgar wheat–simple!

We were eight round the table–old friends–including my old adversary from Poldark days, Donald Douglas (aka Captain McNeil). It was convivial. I was enjoying the occasion.

It was only late the next day that I realised I had forgotten an essential step in the preparation of the starter–grilling the broccoli (see below). As I served up the dish, I had a nagging feeling something was not quite right! (We have a tradition of forgetting key ingrediants when entertaining for crowds!).

PLUS I forgot to prepare the bulgar wheat, so the table had to wait while it fluffed up.

The recipes:

This dish also served as the starter for the special Saturday dinner on my October Cooking Workshop:

It is adapted from a recipe in Ottolenghi’s eponymous first cookbook.

On that night it tumbled over a small pile of salad leaves–radiccio, rocket, lettuce–dressed with olive oil lemon juice and salt.

Here it is on a bed of Sam Talbot’s Quinoa.

1lb broccoli–broken into bite-size pieces

2 tablespoons olive oil

salt and pepper

garlic cloves–sliced as thin as you can

2 fresh red chilis, medium hot–de-seeded and sliced

4 tablespoons olive oil

lemon sliced very thin

  • Steam the broccoli–more than blanched less than tender–still crunchy in other words.
  • Remove to a bowl and pour over 2 tablespoons of olive oil and season with salt.
  • Heat a grill to hot.
  • Scatter the broccoli over it and colour lightly. [Don’t FORGET this step!]

  • Return to the serving bowl.
  • Heat the second batch of oil.
  • When hot cook the garlic slices and the chili until the garlic takes on some color.

  • Pour this mixture over the broccoli.
  • Add the lemon slices and mix in carefully.
  • Serve on a bed of salad leaves dressed with  olive oil, lemon juice and salt.

Lamb Tagine with dried apricots & flageolet beans

(Reproduced from Delicious Dishes for Diabetics p 138)

This superb dish for company is adapted from one in Frances Bissell’s exceptional book The Pleasures of Cookery.

for 6/8

2 kg/41⁄2 lb boned shoulder of lamb–cut away as much fat as possible, ending up with about 1.5 kg/31⁄2 lb lean lamb, cut into 2 cm/1 inch cubes

3 tbsp olive oil
3 onions–sliced
4 cloves of garlic–chopped
11⁄2 tsp cumin seeds
11⁄2 tsp coriander seeds
850 ml/11⁄2 pints/31⁄2 cups stock--I use organic vegetable stock cubes
24 dried apricots–halved (use the yellow ones as they show up better in the sauce later)
salt and pepper
parsley, or even better coriander–chopped
1 large tin flageolet beans–drained and rinsed

  1. Heat the oven at 160°C/325°F/Gas Mark 3.
  2. Seal the meat in hot oil, using a large frying pan; when nicely browned, remove it to the ovenproof casserole you will serve it from.
  3. Gently fry the onions and garlic in the fat and oil left in the pan without browning them.
  4. Fold in the whole spices and let them cook a little.
  5. Add almost all the stock, leaving just enough in which to heat up the beans, and let it reduce a bit.
  6. Add the apricots. Season this mixture and pour it into the casserole.
  7. Add a handful of parsley or coriander.
  8. Heat the beans in a little stock and when hot add to the casserole. Turn everything over carefully.
  9. Bring it all to a simmer and place it on a low shelf in the preheated oven.
  10. Cook for 2 hours, checking after an hour to see if it needs topping up with stock – being careful not to lose the intensity of the sauce.
  11. Serve over bulgar wheat [Which you’ve remember to prepare!]