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Archive for the ‘Recipes’ Category

Peperonata

Worth trying just for the beauty of it!

It is the perfect time.

The markets have red and yellow late summer peppers on the stalls and the tomatoes are sweet end of season numbers.

The last few from the garden

This will be lunch today served on a piece of rye toast (for me–wholewheat for Meredith) with a poached egg perched on top.

750gms/1.5 lbs red and yellow peppers (or just red if you can’t find yellow)–seeded and sliced in strips

1 tablespoon olive oil

350 gms/12 oz ripe tomatoes–peeled and chopped

1 medium onion–sliced thinly

2 cloves of garlic–sliced

2 bay leaves

1 teaspoon balsamic vinegar

salt and pepper

  • Heat the oil in a medium pan you can cover.
  • Sauté the onion to soften it for five minutes then add the sliced garlic; turn it in the onion and oil and cook for a couple more minutes.
  • Add the pepper slices and the bay leaves, turning these over in the mixture.
  • Cover the pan and cook for 15 minutes to soften the peppers, turning them a couple of times.
  • Add the tomatoes, some salt and pepper, mix them in and cover the pan again–let this cook gently for 20 minutes.
  • If he mix is a little too liquid, cook it another 5 minutes or so uncovered.
  • Add the teaspoon of balsamic and mix in well.
  • A spoonful of tapinade makes a nice contrast with the colours of Catalonia (to the south of us here)

The flag of Catalonia!

  •  and cuts the sweetness of the peppers–but then you have to make the tapinade!
  • For us now it’s a poached egg.

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I set off on the long walk for walnuts yesterday afternoon.

It lasts from now to early November and involves a lot of bending down.

Good exercise–and usually good results.

We still over two full boxes left from last year’s harvest. The slim pickin’s from yesterday–just under a kilo–are on the slatted table drying out. And are clearly a subject for conversation!

I know, but listen–have you heard about…?”

The modest almond and its benefits to health have been in the news.

 Diabetes.co.uk reported yesterday that:
Two new studies into the potential health benefits of eating almonds have supported evidence that they can help people with type 2 diabetes to maintain their blood glucose and cholesterol levels.
 One of the studies, published in the journal Metabolism, showed that consuming an ounce of almonds straight before eating a high-starch meal brought a 30 per cent reduction in post-meal glucose levels for patients with type 2 diabetes….”
I just measured out an ounce and counted about thirty nuts–about what I eat as a snack in the late afternoon. I was reminded of an earlier post called Peckishness“:

” Almonds are my prefered nut at the moment–roasted with a little salt. Pistachios preceded them until my nails started to split with opening them. Both have good health properties. Eaten in moderation, one doesn’t have to feel guilty about snacking.

Home-roasted almonds

About 8oz/250gm almonds

1 teaspoon olive oil

fine salt

  • heat the oven to 180C/375F
  • Put the almonds in a bowl and tip the teaspoon of oil over them.
  • Turn them over in the oil until they are well covered.
  • Add a couple of sprinklings of salt and flip them over and over until the salt is well distributed.
  • Spread  the nuts on a shallow baking tray and roast in the middle of the oven for about 10 minutes. There’s no pain in testing them for doneness–except perhaps briefly to the fingers!
The only drawback–they are more-ish..!

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We had these last night with quinoa, plain green beans, and garlicky yogurt sauce.

It’s adapted from a recipe by Rick Stein–known as the uncrowned king of Cornwall.

When we were filming Poldark in Cornwall 35 years ago, eating out in the county was very different from what we experienced last weekend and Rick Stein has a lot to do with it.  His fish restaurants in Padstow have set a benchmark. Things have improved!

We tried to reserve a table at one of Rick’s places a couple of weeks before our trip but they were all booked–sad for us but “Hooray” for Cornwall!

for 2+

500gms/1lb aubergines–cut up into smallish pieces (quicker to sauté), lightly salted and left in a sieve or colander for an hour to drain off their liquid, then dried ready for the pan. (This seems tedious to do but they absorb less oil this way.)

4 tablespoons olive oil

1” square piece of fresh ginger--chopped fine

3 garlic cloves–pulped with half a teaspoon of salt

1 tablespoon of water

2 tablespoons whole fennel seeds

1 tablespoon whole cumin seeds

1 tablespoon whole coriander seeds–crushed

1 teaspoon turmeric powder

1 teaspoon chili powder

500gms/1lb tomatoes–chopped with their juice (or use tinned)

3 more tablespoons of water

  • whizz the ginger and garlic in a tablespoon of water to form a loose paste.
  • heat a tablespoon of olive oil in a large sauté pan that you can cover.
  • when hot, add a single layer of  the dry aubergine pieces.
  • turn them in the oil and sauté on all sides until nicely browned–a pair of cooking tongs comes in handy here–then set aside. (It’s worth taking your time to make sure the aubergine is cooked through.)
  • continue the process until all the aubergine pieces are cooked, adding more oil as needed.
  • let the pan cool a little before heating two tablespoons of oil and adding the fennel and cumin seeds.
  • let them colour for a few seconds before adding the ginger and garlic paste.
  • cook this gently for a minute or two before adding the coriander, turmeric and chili powder.
  • cook this gently for a minute before adding the tomatoes and the extra water.
  • turn the lovely looking mix over and cook on a low heat for ten minutes to form a sauce.
  • add the aubergine pieces turning everything over thoroughly before covering the pan and cooking for a further 5 to 10 minutes.
  • test the doneness of the aubergines, cooking them a little more if necessary, adding a little more water if  needed.
  • check the seasoning and sprinkle some chopped mint, fresh coriander, or parsley over the dish before serving.

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On our way back from the book signing we spend Saturday night in Totnes–old hippy haunt and medieval town on the the river Dart in Devon.

After visiting the Sunday market–(every third Sunday in the month)

we have lunch at a bistro with our friends Maj-Britt and Lars.

“What’s in the Tomato soup–it’s delicious?–would you ask the chef.”

“Roasted tomatoes, red pepper, onion, and garlic–he says.”

So this morning–a little bleary eyed (we returned yesterday)–I head for Realmont market and a stall of home grown tomatoes and peppers.

The market in this medieval town is every Wednesday; retired farmers talk about the weather and old times–and there’s even a hippy or two!

Hearing Grace Slick and the Jefferson Airplane‘s Somebody to love–blasting out over the normally detested civic sound system, transports me back and puts a spring in my step.

Then back home to have a go at the soup.

Oven set to 230C/450F

Cover a shallow oven tray with foil and brush it with olive oil.

800 grms/1lb 12ozs tomatoes–cut up in large chunks

250/ grms/8oz red peppers–deseeded and chopped in large chunks

1 medium onion–peeled and chopped in large chunks

3 garlic cloves–peeled and chopped

300ml vegetable stock–I use half a stock cube in hot water

  • gather these in a bowl and pour over a tablespoon of olive oil.
  • season with salt and pepper and mix well.
  • tip this mix into the oven tray and spread it evenly.
  • put it into the hot oven for 30 minutes.
  • it comes out nicely singed.
  • let it cool a little then tip it all in a food processor and whizz to a roughish finish.
  • (I don’t mind the bits of tomato and pepper skin but there’s the option of lifting these off after the cooling period).
  • after tasting it I add a couple of teaspoons of cider vinegar–it seems to need something.
  • pour the soup into a saucepan and add the stock.
  • stir it well and heat through.
  • check the seasoning.
  • we have a small glass of it for lunch
–with a little fresh basil sprinkled on top and swirl of olive oil–could be creme fraiche though!

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To Borough Market–as Sam Pepys might say–Saturday morning in search of the perfect tomato.

They grow them on the Isle of Wight–there’s a micro climate there.

I plan to make Ma’s Gazpacho for the London launch of the cookbook–can’t have too many launches!

 The Saturday farmers’ market in Southwark by the Thames, in the shadow of the Cathedral’s tower–

used to be great. Growers and producers arriving from all over to sell their stuff to enthusiastic foodies.  A meeting place of like minds with complementary needs.

No more–sadly.

There are still a few stalls selling produce from out of town but it is now firmly on the tourist trail–nicely situated between the Tower of London and the South Bank. More a fun fair of food–and nothing wrong with that–with stall after stall selling healthy fast food–

to eat mainly on the hoof–while checking out what else is on offer.

Quest stalled and this cook fast realising how spoiled he is by the French markets he’s accustomed to–boo-hoo…

Back to Waterloo (where we are staying) to think again–in search of inspiration now.

I suddenly remember a Sunday market in Islington and google it–of course.

There it is–still going– but “moved to Chapel Market–every Sunday 8am to 2pm.”

Sometimes you want to kiss the Internet!

Whoopee and off we go this morning.

“Freshly picked Isle of Wight Tomatoes” says the sign! Quest over.

And sold by the grower, a delightful fresh-faced young man from…Poland! (Not famed, as far as I know, for its tomato crop).

He knew his tomatoes though–they’re tasty.

Delighted, relieved, ladened down (5 Kilos)–I go to two more stalls and find the remaining ingredients.

Search over–now to make it.

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This is my version of a “serious” white bean soup from the great Italian-American cook, Marcella Hazan.

It is in my newly published book–Delicious Dishes for Diabetics–a Mediterranean Way of Eating.

The smooth and creamy consistency make it a comfort soup par excellence –and popular here with nieces and nephews when they come to visit. Meredith says it reminds her of her home town–Chicago, “the Windy City”!

The simple makings

Serves 4

1 clove of garlic – peeled and chopped

8 tablespoons olive oil

2 tablespoon flat leaf parsley – chopped

1 kg/36 oz canned or, preferably, bottled cannelini /white beans – drained and rinsed

salt and pepper

250 ml/½ pint/1 cup vegetable stock –[I use organic vegetable stock cubes]

toasted wholewheat/rye bread with a little olive oil

  • Sauté the garlic in the oil gently until it colours.
  • Add the parsley and stir a couple of times.
  • Mix in the beans, salt and pepper.
  • Cover and cook gently for about 5 minutes to warm through.
  • Purée a quarter of the beans in a mixer and return with the stock to the pan.
  • Simmer for another 5 minutes.
  • Check the seasoning.
  • Serve over the toast with a swirl of olive oil in each bowl.

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This is quickly done and delicious–but the mackerel really does need to be fresh.

The incomparable Nigel Slater does a thyme dressing for the tomato salad (see below) and it is the clincher for this combination.

Back in May I bought a couple of  “green” tomato plants at the market in Lautrec.

The young woman assured me they would produce beautiful sweet green tomatoes.

Really?– seems a contradiction in terms.”

“You’ll see!”.

She was right. I’ve been eating my words and the green tomatoes for a couple of weeks now!

I thanked her today at the market after buying the mackerel from the fishmonger.

She said she was pleased I liked them.

“People are reluctant to buy them–obviously not ready–not ripe, they say”.

Worth a try I say–with the zeal of the newly converted!

for 2

2 very fresh mackerel–in fillets

salt and pepper

olive oil

tomatoes for the salad–cut up or sliced as you like (of course you can use RED!)

for the dressing:

1 garlic clove–peeled and pulped with a good pinch of salt

1 tablespoon thyme leaves–chopped

lemon–juiced

4 tablespoons olive oil

salt and pepper

making the dressing:

Pound the thyme leaves with the garlic clove and salt.

Add some pepper.

Mix in the lemon juice,

then the olive oil.

Cooking the mackerel

  • Heat the grill to hot.
  • Brush the fillets with olive oil and season them well.
  • Lay some foil over the grill pan–brush with oil.
  • Place the fillets, skin side up, on the foil.
  • Place under the grill.
  • The skin will start to scorch and bubble–which adds to the flavour.

(Careful not to overdo it though.)

Dress the tomato salad, add the cooked fillets and drizzle the fish with a little more of the dressing.

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I’ve been neglectful of the tomato patch and it has got out of control.

I’m too ashamed to show a photo of it!

I didn’t do a proper job on the staking and when tomatoes get riper they get heavier and need strong support.

My efforts to put things right yesterday were comical, and I decided to let them go their ways and be grateful for what they offer.

I apologised and promised I’d do better by them next year!

Mother Nature’s been in a forgiving mood and the yield has been sweet and generous so far.

I collected enough ripe tomatoes to make this salad.

It’s based on the wonderful Riverford Farm Cook Book with some rocket added.

a handful of rocket

1 jar of cooked cannellini [white beans]–rinsed

3 courgettes–sliced into 1/2 centimetre–ie not too thick and not too thin!– strips

a generous handful of cherry tomatoes

a generous handful of basil leaves

1 clove of garlic–peeled and pulped with a pinch of salt

3 tablespoons olive oil

salt

more olive oil to brush the courgettes and to annoint the warmed beans

Heat a griddle  to hot.

Warm  the beans through in a little water.

Drain and moisten them with a tablespoon of olive oil.

Add them to a large bowl in which you are going to mix the salad.

Brush the courgettes with oil and grill them on both sides until tender and nicely charred.

Add them to the bowl.

Add the cherry tomatoes–halved if they are on the large side.

Combine the basil, garlic, a pinch of salt and the olive oil in a food mixer and whizz.

Add this to the salad and turn it over carefully.

Lay the rocket in a wide bowl and gently empty the mixed salad into it, and  turn the salad again.

You can serve this tepid or at room temperature.

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It was 32C/90F at noon yesterday–HOT!

I made a salad for lunch, involving grilled courgettes, cannellini beans, rocket and cherry tomatoes.

A bit of a business and maybe on the heavy side considering the heat, but I’d been wanting to make it for some time and it would make a good post I thought.

I convinced myself.

We’d had it before--Meredith even wrote “GREAT!” on the recipe page–I thought I was on safe ground.

After she’d dutifully eaten half a plateful of the salad, she got up  made a piece of toast–with the organic rye I eat–sliced a large wedge of very ripe tomato, placed it on the toast with a pinch of salt and drizzled some of our tuscan olive oil on it.

She found the ball of mozzarella I’d bought earlier, sliced a piece similar in size to the slice of tomato and placed it on top.

She bit into it and at that moment I knew I’d made the wrong choice for lunch.

"The right choice"

[ps: recipe for the salad to follow in a later post!]

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Our friend, Sonia, called by with husband John yesterday to buy an extra cook book autographed for a friend.

She’s a green-fingered gardener and a generous spirit–seldom arriving without something seasonal from her vegetable patch. Yesterday she brought us two HUGE tomatoes, and a round courgette.

How on earth did she know about our new resolve!?

She also brought enough basil to make pesto (recipe from the cook book)–a favorite with Meredith–which was delicious, drizzled lightly over the grilled aubergine and courgettes for supper:

No wine! We kept the pledge--but it was hard.

Now–what to do with the two red beauties…?

One weighed in at a pound and a half (700 grams)! A sauce, perhaps…?

A sliced tomato salad and pesto again, with the other (a puny pound or 450gms)?

Some of the left-over Parma ham, lightly grilled, and Sonia’s courgette–cut into thick rounds, lightly salted and left to drain for half an hour, dried and brushed with olive oil, then roasted for 20 minutes at a high heat (turn them over after 10 minutes) with a spoonful of tapinade spread over it this time–will see us through to supper.

A merry mess!

Post lunch, I notice that there’s enough tomato sauce left over to make a small courgette tian for supper.

We’ll be not be wanting courgettes for a couple of days!

But there are plenty of other summer choices and I’ll never tire of red ripe tomatoes….must go check the tomato patch!

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