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Posts Tagged ‘sucrine’

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Years ago we had lunch at a traditional brasserie in Toulouse and I chose as a starter a salad that sounded a little different.

It was an assembly of baby gem lettuce (called sucrine here– and they have a sweetness to them) small dollops of tapinade, parmesan shavings and quail eggs.

It looked beautiful: green and black with the yellow of the egg yolks and parmesan lifting it into the sublime.

It tasted good too–and joined my repertoire of Starters.

This version takes that recipe further, adding the smoky edge that a little light grilling gives the lettuce halves.

Grilling lettuce? Sounds odd but these tightly formed little gems keep their shape and and are transformed into the main players on the plate.

It helps to have some tapinade* already made, although a scattering of juicy black olives-chopped would do too.

I use the anchovy vinaigrette–also from my cook book–which goes well with these punchy little lettuces–but you could keep it simple and stick with the vinaigrette of your choice.

For 2

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  • 3 baby lettuce hearts–halved lengthwise
  • anchovy dressing* or vinaigrette of choice
  • some tapinade dip (or chopped black oils)
  • parmesan shavings
  • 4 poached eggs
  • a couple of anchovies–halved lengthwise and across (optional!)

Heat a grill pad (the kind that sits on the stove) to hot.

Brush the cut side of the lettuce halves with the dressing and a little more olive oil

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Grill for two or three minutes while lightly brushing the other sides of the lettuces with the dressing.

The grilling should take long enough to soften and color the lettuce without burning.

Turn them over and grill for a further two minutes or so….

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Plate them up and pour over a little more dressing.

Top with dollops of tapinade and some parmesan shavings.

Finish with thinly slice anchovy fillets (if you’re using them).

Add the eggs to the assembly.

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We ate these under the parasol in the courtyard.

Sublime…

 

* recipe in my new book, Mediterranean Cooking for Diabetics and on this blog; it is a handy dip in summer!

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Sucrine they are called here in France, I guess because they have a sweetness to them.

These tightly packed little tornadoes are known as baby gem lettuce in the UK.

They have an agreeable crunchiness that lends itself to strong contrasts–hence the addition of anchovy.

Anchovies are usually a background sound in cooking but here they solo occasionally. I love ’em–but they are not to everyone’s taste.

I ordered this a couple of days ago in our new favorite restaurant–Chez Germaine in Gaillac.

A pre-movie (Whiplash) lunch with Donald Douglas (aka Cap’n McNeil in Poldark!) and Emma Temple, his partner.

This place is the French version of a tapas bar–warm and convivial–and the food comes in small quantities on individual plates. I ordered a plate of baby squid persillade (in parsley and garlic oil) and this salad. Perfect with a glass of the local red wine (Gaillac).

The combination of the crispness of the lettuce and creaminess of the goat’s cheese with the occasional bite of anchovy had everyone dipping in!

Meredith–not too sure about anchovies showing up so brazenly–suggested substituting roasted sunflower or pumpkin seeds–good idea.

You could add them anyway–but I like the salad’s simplicity.

for two

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ingredients

2 sucrine (baby gem) lettuces–deconstructed and sliced up

half a goat’s cheese “log”–or other shapes–pulled apart to spread its creaminess

3 or 4 anchovy fillets–sliced into smaller pieces

dressing

1 tbsp red wine vinegar

4 tbsp olive oil

1 clove garlic–pulped in a mortar with a pinch of salt

salt and pepper

—————–

Add the lettuce to a favorite bowl.

Add the cheese and the anchovy pieces.

Make the vinaigrette

Add the wine vinegar to the garlic in the mortar and whisk.

Add the olive oil and whisk it in to make the vinaigrette.

Pour it over the contents of the bowl.

Turn everything over carefully until the little lettuce gleams with pride.

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