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Escarole is the mildest mannered member of the chicory family of lettuce, but can claim many healthy components.

Its leaves are brilliant green and floppy on the outside lightening to almost white in the centre. It welcomes the strongly flavored anchovy dressing as does the diced avocado.

This organically-grown beauty was picked young–we ate almost the whole lettuce for lunch–there was very little wastage. A larger more mature specimen might need the damaged outer leaves removing.

Mixing the greens makes for a pretty picture. Add a little darker green rocket to the salad if you have it to hand.

Yesterday our friend Romaine–here for a few days–suggested some diced cucumber might cut the rich mix of anchovy and avocado. I’ll try it today with the last avocado and some rocket.

1 escarole lettuce–washed and spun dry

2 avocados–halved and diced

1 sweet onion or several spring onions/scallions–sliced thin

For the dressing:

garlic clove–peeled and pulped with a little salt in a mortar

anchovy fillets–chopped roughly

2 tblsps red wine vinegar

4 tblsps olive oil

salt to taste–remembering the anchovies are salty and a turn of the pepper mill

mix the dressing:

  • Add the chopped anchovy fillets to the garlic pulp in the mortar and mush and stir them together.
  • Add a little pepper.
  • Mix in the vinegar then whisk in the oil.
  • Taste for salt and add extra if needed.

Arrange the leaves of the escarole as you like in a wide bowl and add the avocado, onion and the rocket (optional!).

Just before serving, whisk the dressing and spoon it over the salad.

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Turn it all over to coat the salad leaves thoroughly.

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Lunch today is an homage to Marcella Hazan who has died at home in Florida aged 89.

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(https://robin-ellis.net/2011/10/10/frittata-with-green-beans/)

A hero passes.

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She was in the line of Julia Child and Elizabeth David–self-taught talents who were cooks rather than chefs.

Marcella wrote in her memoirs:

“Cooking came to me as though it had been there all along, waiting to be expressed; it came as words come to a child when it is time for her to speak.”

Born in Italy, she settled in America with her Italian-American husband, Victor, confessing to no experience in the kitchen–only the memory of the smells from her Grandmother’s kitchen on the east coast of Italy.

She learned fast, built a repertoire of recipes and started running cooking classes in her Manhattan apartment. One day American food writer Craig Claibourne came to lunch.

The rest is history.

Her cooking was classic Italian, recognising the strongly regional nature of that cuisine.  She wrote in Italian–husband Victor translating–and she never lost her Italian accent.

An exigent cook by some accounts (so was Elizabeth David), “tough” was how she described herself in a late interview with Mark Bitman (another hero).

Her cook books are extraordinarily comprehensive and, like Elizabeth David’s, readable. The recipes feel authentically Italian.

Authentic and simple best descibe her cooking, with roots in the kitchen of her nonna, in the village of Cesenatico in Emilia-Romagna, about 120 miles south of Venice.

She has inspired me for nearly 40 years. I love my well-thumbed, stained, patched-up copies of her books.

My friend, Marc Urquhart, who knew of my passion for her recipes, surprised me with the gift of her cookbook that he specially arranged to have inscribed by her.

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Grazie tanto, cara Marcella, for the many hours I’ve spent cooking with you in the kitchen and sharing your food ’round our table.

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Three medium courgettes from the single plant in the garden and five eggs made up this handy end-of-season dish adapted from Carluccio’s Vegetable book.

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More scrambled eggs than omelette or frittata–it an attractive way to use some of the  courgettes queueing up to be used as the glut develops.

serves 4 as a light lunch

3 medium courgettes

1 onion–sliced thin

3 tbsp olive oil

4 eggs–beaten

50gm/2oz parmesan cheese–grated

2 tbsp parsley–chopped

1 tbsp mint (if available)–chopped

salt and pepper

To prepare the courgettes–peel them in stripes, quarter them lengthwise and cut them in dice.

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Sprinkle with salt and leave them to drain in a sieve or colander for an hour or so.

Dry them in kitchen paper or a tea towel.

Heat the oil in a pan big enough to hold all the courgettes in a single layer.

Sauté the onion over a low heat until it softens and then add the courgettes, turning them over  in the oil.

Cook them until they are tender–about 20 minutes.

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Break the eggs into a mixing bowl and whisk them together.

Mix in the parmesan, the parsley and mint (if using), season with salt and pepper–more pepper than salt, bearing in mind the courgettes have been salted already.

Pour the egg mix over the courgettes and start turning it over gently as the eggs solidify.

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This will not take long–it’s ready when the the mix is loosely solid–scambled in fact!

Take care not to cook it too solid!

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Meredith toasted two pieces of wholewheat bread and sprinkled some olive oil over them to eat with these courgette “eggs”.

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This salad featured regularly at summer lunches, B.D. (Before Diagnosis!)

Back then I made it with roughly torn pieces of stale white ciabbata bread and sun-sweet tomatoes bursting with juice, assembled an hour or so before eating, dressed and turned over to let the juices do their work melding the oil and garlic and softening the bread.

It then sat, covered, ready for a proud presentation–convenient, as well as delicious.

But when white bread got the boot I was put off making it.

This week I remembered a version I’d had at La Famiglia (favourite Italian restaurant in London) years ago, made with neatly cut smaller pieces of bread that had been fried in olive oil. At the time I was disdainful of its inauthenticity (pompous thought!).

Reminded of how much I missed it, I tried it with a few neat pieces of the 100% organic rye bread I have for breakfast, dribbled with olive oil and browned in the oven for a few minutes.

It got the nod at lunch!

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Though Meredith insists this is not worth doing with less than ripe tomatoes–je suis d”accord.

It’s a late summer salad–handy if you have a tomato glut.

for 2/3

3 slices of rye/ wholewheat bread–cut into small pieces

1 tbsp olive oil for tossing the bread in

1 lb ripe, sweet, delicious tomatoes–peeled and roughly chopped with their juice

half a cucumber–peeled and seeded and cut into four pieces

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1 fat garlic clove

2 tbsp red wine vinegar

6 tbsp olive oil

salt and pepper

a handful of parsley–chopped

Turn on the oven to 220C/430F

Toss the bread pieces in a tablespoon of olive oil and spread them on a small oven tray and put it in oven as it heats up.

Check after ten minutes to see if the pieces have browned a little.

If so, take them out and let them rest or if not, cook on a few moments more.

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Slice the peeled garlic clove as thin as you can.

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Then add them to the bread.

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Pile on the tomatoes and their precious juice.

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Then the cucumber, in chunks…

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Whisk together the oil, vinegar, salt and pepper and pour the dressing over the salad.

Having dutifully “followed my own instructions” I realised the plate I’d been assembling the salad on, though it looked good, was too small on which to turn the salad over comfortably!

So I slid it into a mixing bowl, turned it over thoroughly and then carefully back onto the plate. (An exercise a sensible forward-thinking person can avoid!)

Finished by sprinkling over with chopped parsley.

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Puy lentils:

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Small, silvery slate-coloured ones originally from the volcanic Auvergne region of central France hold their shape nicely if not overcooked.

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I love lentils–grey/green/orange.

Meredith–not so keen on account of their tendency to cause flatulence; though she tells me now that reading up about the health benefits of these little jewels , she’s begun to change her mind–“I think I should be eating them….” Whoopee!!

I’ll put up with any mild discomfort because the taste and texture is so pleasing.

AND…

…a good source of protein and a healthy vegetarian alternative to meat.

This version is straightforward with little adornment. The vinegar, salt and olive oil is enough to make me keep spooning them onto my plate. You can top them with yogurt, creme fraiche, or with smoky aubergine as I did the other night–suggested by a recipe in Ottolenghi’s brilliant vegetable cookbook, Plenty.

Simply done like this, they look good on the plate next to the orange hue of a slowly sautéed fillet of salmon.

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Add a spoonful of spinach and you have a beautiful dish for all seasons.

plenty for 4

12oz puy or similar lentils–washed and drained

1 medium unpeeled onion (red or yellow)–halved

half an unpeeled garlic bulb

a couple of bay leaves

a sprig of thyme

to finish:

1 tbsp olive oil

a splash (about 1 tbsp) of red wine vinegar

1 tsp salt or to taste

  • Put the lentils into a pan and cover them with cold water.
  • Add the halved onion and garlic bulb, thyme and bay leaves.
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  • Bring up to the simmer and cook, covered, until the lentils are just done–soft but with a bite.
  • Drain them thoroughly and empty the lentils into a bowl.
  • Pour the vinegar and oil over them and add salt.
  • Turn the lentils over and mix gently, allowing them to retain their pleasing shape.

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Spaghettini marinara

Fisherman’s pasta (marinara translated) from Naples–equally tasty for landlubbers.

Simple fare for summer supper.

Best done with ripe tomatoes–in our case catching the last of a disappointing season–and slices of new garlic.

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for 4

16oz/400gms wholewheat spaghettini–(we prefer this unrefined version now.)

1.5lb/750gms fresh ripe tomatoes–peeled and chopped small

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4 garlic cloves–peeled and sliced

4 tbsp olive oil

3 large basil leaves or more–snipped into pieces

salt

parmesan for grating

Heat the oil in a medium pan.

Add the garlic and cook for about a minute–it should start to soften.

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An earlier version with a chili added–last night I left it out

Add the tomatoes, the salt and over a highish heat bring to a strong simmer.

Cook for about three minutes stirring often to further break up the tomatoes.

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Snip some basil over the finished dish, turn it in and add a swirl of olive oil.

Serve with a piece of parmesan and a grater to hand.

One of the great tastes of summer for me–the juices from ripe tomatoes melding with good olive oil; so a soup spoon for scooping them up comes in handy too.

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A two-in-one recipe!

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This pretty frittata (Italian omelette) requires a good dollop of peperonata turned into the egg mixture.

Frittatas are cooked SLOW SLOW (omelettes are cooked FAST).

Slow–to stop them drying out.

After a shy start, tomatoes are everywhere at the moment and local peppers are ripening, turning from green to red and yellow.

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Time for one of my favourite CLASSICS of Italian summer vegetarian cooking!

Peperonata–a  sauce made from fresh, ripe tomatoes, red and yellow sweet peppers, onion and garlic.

Serve it on a piece of toast as a snack with a teaspoon of tapinade on top; or as a vegetable accompaniment; or reheated with a poached egg in the middle.

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If you pour a little olive oil over the surface of any left-over sauce (should you have any!) in a plastic storage box, it will stay fresh longer.

First the peperonata:  (This recipe comes from my next cookbook, Healthy Eating for Life, coming out in January 2014).

750gms/1.5 lbs red and yellow peppers (or just red if you can’t find yellow)–seeded and sliced in strips

1 tbsp olive oil

350 gms/12 oz ripe tomatoes–peeled and chopped (peel by dropping them in a bowl of boiling water for a moment, then the skins comes off easily)

1 medium onion–sliced thinly

2 cloves of garlic–sliced

bay leaves

1 tsp balsamic vinegar

salt and pepper

  • Heat the oil in a medium pan you can cover.
  • Add the onion and soften it for five minutes; then add the sliced garlic–turning it in the onion and oil and cook for a couple of more minutes.
  • Add the pepper slices and the bay leaves, turning these over in the mixture.

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  • Cover the pan and cook for 15 minutes to soften the peppers, turning them a couple of times.
  • Add the tomatoes, some salt and pepper, mix them in and cover the pan again–let this cook gently for 20 minutes.

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  • If the mix looks too liquid, cook it another 5 minutes or so uncovered.
  • Add the teaspoon of balsamic and mix in well.

Now the Frittata

6 eggs

4 tbsp peperonata sauce

salt and pepper

1 heaped tbsp parmesan cheese–grated

Break the eggs into large bowl.

Whisk them together.

Fold in the peperonata and the parmesan cheese.

Season with salt and pepper.

Turn everything over so the sauce is distributed evenly in the egg mix.

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Heat the oil in a small frying pan (8.5″/22cm).

When it is hot pour in the frittata mix.

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Turn the heat down to the lowest setting. A heat disperser (flame tamer) is a good idea.

It will take about 25 minutes–but keep a watch.

When only a small puddle of egg mix remains uncooked, slide the pan under a hot grill for a minute to finish off.IMG_8884

Using a spatula or fish slice…

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ease the frittata carefully from the pan and slide it onto a serving plate.

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Serves four as a starter…

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…or two for lunch.

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All that was left!

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A taster from my new cook book Healthy Eating for Life due to be published on January 8th 2014–my birthday!

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We had it for lunch today–with some green beans, as suggested in the recipe–spiced up with a couple of ripe tomatoes and feta.

A traditional North African favourite, this version is adapted from a recent discovery in Ottolenghi’s sumptuous vegetable cookbook, Plenty.

The name means “mixture” in Tunisian–better to stick to Shakshouka I reckon!

It is often served in individual cast iron pans, which I imagine adds to the pleasure–one pan and ALL for ME!

It makes a pretty picture on the plate—a perfect light summer lunch.

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for 2

1/2 tsp cumin seeds–dry roasted in a medium pan

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1 large onion–red or yellow, sliced

60ml/1/4 cup olive oil

red peppers--washed, deseeded and sliced thin

bay leaf, thyme leaves from a few sprigs, 2 tablespoons of parsley

3 large fresh ripe tomatoes or tinned [canned]–roughly chopped with the juices

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1/4 tsp cayenne pepper and a pinch–a few strands–of saffron (optional)

¼ cup/60 ml water

2 or 4 eggs

salt and pepper

Dry roast in a small frying pan the cumin seeds for a minute or two, taking care not to burn them.

Heat the oil in the pan over a medium-high flame and cook the onion for 5 minutes to soften it.

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Add the peppers and three herbs (bay, thyme and parsley) and turn everything over thoroughly.

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Cover the pan for 5 minutes to start the softening of the peppers.

Cook a further 5 minutes uncovered.

Add the tomatoes, the water, a little at a time to avoid diluting the sauce, the two spices (cayenne pepper and saffron) and season with salt and pepper.

Cook for 15 minutes on a low heat–covering for a short time if you think the peppers need further softening.

The result should be a lightly spicy sauce in which to poach the eggs.

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Carefully break the eggs (2 or 4–your choice) into the sauce–leaving space between them.

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Cover the pan and cook, over a lowish heat, until the eggs are cooked to your taste.

IMG_8632Reluctantly–I shared the pan’s contents with Meredith!

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I bought these two beauties at the organic market on Thursday because–well–simply because they were so beautiful. How could you not!?

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I published this photo on Facebook and asked people to guess what they are.

Great responses! Most plumped for aubergines [eggplants]–but  Elaine Adams, with her tongue firmly in cheek, commented:

“It looks like my two favourite things–aubergines and tomatoes–had babies!”

Following the photo showing how they were transformed, several readers asked for the recipe.

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This comes from page 24 of Delicious Dishes for Diabetics.

Serves 4

Can be prepared ahead of time and served warm or tepid.

2 large aubergines

olive oil for brushing the oven tray and the aubergines

salt

2–3 tbsp red/white wine vinegar

Sauce:

3–4 cloves of garlic – crushed with a little salt (the amount of garlic is a matter of taste–the younger/fresher the better though)

60g/2 oz walnuts – shelled (if you do this yourself, take care no pieces of shell get left with the nuts)

2 tbsp olive oil 

handful of parsley–chopped

  • Wash and cut the aubergines into about 1.5 cm/1/2 inch slices.
  • Salt them and put them in a colander for an hour or more, to drain off their bitter juice. (wise move, if you have the time–this way they soak up less oil!)
  • Dry them thoroughly and brush generously with olive oil on both sides.
  • Heat the oven to 240°C/475°F/Gas Mark 9.
  • Put the aubergines on a well-oiled shallow oven tray.

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  • Cook them on the top shelf of the oven for about 20 minutes until lightly browned–turning after about 10 minutes.

While the aubergines are in the oven, make the sauce.

  • Mix the crushed garlic with a tablespoon of olive oil.
  • Chop the walnuts in a processor or pound them in a pestle and mortar. (Not too fine!)
  • Combine the chopped walnuts and garlic with the parsley in a bowl and add another tablespoon or so of oil.
  • Mix well and check for salt.

When the aubergines are nicely browned on both sides, remove from the oven.
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  • Transfer them to a serving platter, brush with vinegar, then spread the delicious sauce on top.

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Serve warm or at room temperature.

It’s one of our favorite starters–meaty too…

Here’s an aubergine that thinks it’s an animal!
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This recipe comes from Delicious Dishes for Diabetics–post publication we’ve dined on it several times at friends’ houses!

It’s a boon for busy people.

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It’s simple to prepare and good for company because you can prepare the sauce ahead of time. Then it’s just a matter of reheating the sauce fifteen minutes before you are ready to eat, slipping in the fish and minutes later–hey presto!

Serves 4

4 tbsp olive oil
1 small onion – chopped
2 cloves of garlic – chopped
2 tbsp chopped parsley
8 tbsp white wine
300 g/12 oz summer ripe tomatoes or good tinned tomatoes and their juice–broken up

800 g/1.8 lb white fish fillet–hake, haddock, cod are good choices–washed, patted dry

salt and pepper

  • Heat the oil in a pan large enough to take all the fish in a single layer.
  • Add the onion and garlic and cook gently until the onion is soft and the garlic begins to colour.
  • Add the parsley and stir in.
  • Turn up the heat and add the wine – let it bubble for a minute or so.
  • Add the tomatoes and fold them in.
  • Turn the heat down and, stirring occasionally, cook gently for 20 minutes.
  • Season for taste.
  • When you are ready to use the sauce, bring it to a simmer.
  • Add the fish and cook gently for about 5 minutes.

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  • Turn the fish pieces over carefully and cook for a further 5 minutes. (Depending on the thickness of your fish, it might take longer.)

We had it with brown basmati rice and green beans for a simple supper at our friend Ann’s the other night, under a starry sky.

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