Castres‘ Saturday morning market is a major event.
It attracts locals–alarmingly known as Castraises–and weekend visitors, among them the occasional cluster of rugby fans from Angleterre visiting for the match against erstwhile national champions Castres Olympic.
As well as offering a stunning source of local, fresh produce, it serves as a chance to meet friends, share a coffee or apéro [apéritif] in one of the bars that surround Place Jean Jaurès in centre ville.
It’s teeming by 10am with slow-moving crowds, greeting friends in the traditional French fashion of shaking hands or kissing on both cheeks (sometimes twice) in normal times–but these are NOT normal times.
After a 10-week absence in lockdown due to the virus threat, I’m back, wearing a mask.
I still get there early to bag the best, and move more freely from stall to stall.
There has been some rearranging of stalls to aid social distancing–but relative location has been more or less respected–important for punters to find their favourites.
Our great friend and neighbour, Flo, is an unlucky exception. She and her marvelous spice stall have been radically re-located.
She is not happy about it.
Not everyone is masked now—though most traders are and shoppers must point to the courgette they fancy rather than sort through the pile.
I locate all my usual vendors and favor a few new ones.
There’s a seasonal limit to the vegetables on offer–summer’s bounty is some weeks off. Courgettes are featuring strongly and aubergines are making their shiny black presence felt for the first time since late autumn.
I’m hoping for broad beans next week and young artichokes so I can make Vignerola–the marvelous Roman vegetable stew–which features in my new book: Robin Ellis’ Mediterranean Vegetarian Cooking, published on 25th June (and available for pre-order now via various booksellers*).
The atmosphere is convivial, despite everyone looking slightly confused and discombobulated.
Queues run differently, stalls face the opposite direction than B.C. (Before Coronavirus!), voices are muffled.
*The new cookbook can be pre-ordered at any of these booksellers–and for those not in the UK, free worldwide delivery via The Book Depository/.
























