Castres‘ Saturday morning market is a major event.
It attracts locals–alarmingly known as Castraises–and weekend visitors, among them the occasional cluster of rugby fans from Angleterre visiting for the match against erstwhile national champions Castres Olympic.
As well as offering a stunning source of local, fresh produce, it serves as a chance to meet friends, share a coffee or apéro [apéritif] in one of the bars that surround Place Jean Jaurès in centre ville.
It’s teeming by 10am with slow-moving crowds, greeting friends in the traditional French fashion of shaking hands or kissing on both cheeks (sometimes twice) in normal times–but these are NOT normal times.
After a 10-week absence in lockdown due to the virus threat, I’m back, wearing a mask.
I still get there early to bag the best, and move more freely from stall to stall.
There has been some rearranging of stalls to aid social distancing–but relative location has been more or less respected–important for punters to find their favourites.
Our great friend and neighbour, Flo, is an unlucky exception. She and her marvelous spice stall have been radically re-located.
She is not happy about it.
Flo at her spice stand in happier times
Not everyone is masked now—though most traders are and shoppers must point to the courgette they fancy rather than sort through the pile.
I locate all my usual vendors and favor a few new ones.
There’s a seasonal limit to the vegetables on offer–summer’s bounty is some weeks off. Courgettes are featuring strongly and aubergines are making their shiny black presence felt for the first time since late autumn.
I’m hoping for broad beans next week and young artichokes so I can make Vignerola–the marvelous Roman vegetable stew–which features in my new book: Robin Ellis’ Mediterranean Vegetarian Cooking, published on 25th June (and available for pre-order now via various booksellers*).
The atmosphere is convivial, despite everyone looking slightly confused and discombobulated.
Queues run differently, stalls face the opposite direction than B.C. (Before Coronavirus!), voices are muffled.
*The new cookbook can be pre-ordered at any of these booksellers–and for those not in the UK, free worldwide delivery via The Book Depository/.
Robin Ellis 
Glad you are doing well. I am looking forward to having our local farmers market reopen next week. Your new book sounds intriguing!😊
Love getting YOUR e-mails!
Chuckled about the new definition of “B.C.”
And about RIPE TOMATOES. Whenever I point out the difference between the name of something VS. its accurate description—I use the example of “vine ripe tomatoes” (which in USA grocery stores never are).
Enjoyed your Article about the farmers market. We have several farmers market here in West Virginia. I enjoy going going and getting green beans,new potatoes, tomatoes corn. You name it I love it. Corriene
Lovely to hear that you are pottering amongst the market stalls once again. I was in Castres 2 years ago and thoroughly enjoyed the market as well as strolling along the river and in the old town. Finding the right road out of Castres too was fun! We ended up going all around the town again.
Looking forward to browsing through your new book and trying out the recipes.
Thanks, Tina.
I have six tomato plants growing on what I euphemistically call my little terrace actually it’s the pavement outside my cottage They are only about a foot high otherwise I would carefully package a few ripe red fruits and send you them Sorry to dangle cruel temptation prematurely Thanks for the ongoing musings Brenda
Watch out for pilferers, Brenda!
Good to hear that more things are opening up in France.
eAlways a pleasure to find a Robin Ellis post in the morning! Wish we could get really fresh produce instead of supermarket stuff.
Great to hear that everyone was considerate and wearing a mask. That’s not always the case over here. 😦 I bought the loveliest STRAWBERRIES the other day, though!! I shop are rarely as possible, fill the cart to overflowing, then have a HUGE grocery bill! Looking forward to our own farmer’s markets opening over here. Tried to find a good spot in our yard to try a garden, again, but our 1 acre lot is just too shady. Stay safe! Hugs!
Good to hear what’s happening in France, now that restrictions are being eased. Although it will be some time before I get a wee trip there again.
Looking forward to purchasing your new book . Thank you for the updates.
Kate