Just back from Rome where we walked and walked and ate and ate–which was the object of the visit.
I planned this trip–to celebrate my 75th birthday with our friends, Helen and Keith (his birthday is two days before mine)–as four nights and eight meals.
In front of the French Embassy in Piazza Farnese with my fellow Capricorn.
Worked out very well.
This might seem to undervalue Rome–the Eternal City, heart of the Catholic Church, ancient heart of the vasty Roman Empire.
Church bells sound on the quarter hour and bits of antique Rome are tucked into walls in unexpected places.
HISTORY is everywhere–writ BIG!
At the Pantheon–in the freezing cold; unRoman winter weather we were told.
But so is the Roman love of FOOD.
At Pecorino, a wonderful restaurant near the Testaccio market
Close to our hotel, Campo di Fiori–home to a proud statue of Giordano Bruno, a Dominican friar burnt at the stake in the piazza in 1600 as a heretic–now it’s famous for its daily market.
Food and history, side by side.
On our last morning, we bought a large handful of prepared punterelle, handily vacuum-packed for the journey.
Puntarelle is one of the culinary wonders of the region.
A member of the chicory family it is traditionally served in an anchovy, lemon and olive oil sauce.
On the way to Keith’s birthday lunch we walked through the old Jewish ghetto–where the inhabitants were locked in at night until the middle of the 19th century.
Now there are police sentry posts at the entrances–keeping attackers out.
Restaurant barkers in yamakas–stand outside in the freezing cold, tempting us to try the famous fried artichokes.
History and food–side by side.
The signature dishes of Rome are on every menu.
I ate an exquisite artichoke fried to a golden finish–the Jewish way–in a tiny restaurant called Soro Margherita (recommended!) in the Piazza delle Cinque Scole on the edge of the Jewish quarter.
I’d been to Rome with the National Youth Theatre in the summer of 1960 with our modern-dress production of Shakespeare’s Julius Caesar.
The following year I returned with a school friend.
Rome was one of our stops on a whirlwind nine-week tour of Europe before starting university.
I remember a single meal from this short visit.
It was a packed lunch of chicken and salad; eaten on location on the edge of what smelt like a sulphur pit.
It was my second day as an extra on a film called The Best of Enemies–starring Alberto Sordi and David Niven plus a galaxy of famous British character actors playing varied ranks in the British army in the Western Desert.
I’d met this guy in the youth hostel who had already been an extra on the film for weeks in Israel, but had decided to quit.
“Why don’t you take my place?” he suggested. “They won’t notice if you keep your head down–just say you’ve come from Israel with the others. They pay £11 a day!”
A FORTUNE on our budget!
“Just make sure you are at the studios (the legendary Cinecitta at the southeast city limits) by six in the morning,” my benefactor advised.
The hostel opened at six, so no chance of sleeping there and making the studios in time.
So I decided to try a bench at the main railway station.
They moved me on.
I don’t remember HOW I got there–but I ended up sleeping on the wall outside the studios and–keeping my head down–coolly signed on.
The first day we shot in the studio.
There I was–hobnobbing with my HEROES–Harry Andrews whom I’d seen playing at Stratford two years before with Laurence Olivier in Coriolanus and Duncan Macrae, the bony Scots actor whom I’d also seen with Olivier in Ionesco’s Rhinoceros in the West End.
I have no memory of what I ate that day!
The second day we were on location outside Rome.
I was a dressed as a Private–khaki shorts and boots–Desert Rats, they were called.
When we broke for lunch I took off my hot, sweaty boots and dipped my toes in a nearby puddle while tucking into my grilled chicken lunch.
By the time I got back to the studio, my left left leg was feeling odd–painful even.
It got worse quickly. Whatever was infecting that pool of water was now climbing rapidly up my left leg!
By the end of the day, I could barely hobble on it–and I had to inform the third assistant director that I didn’t think I could return in the morning.
Then it all came out that I was taking the place of the previous guy–and it got a bit awkward!
They paid me off, but said “don’t bother to come back!”.
As I limped into the hostel, Chris Fordyce, my school friend and traveling companion, looked worried. By ten that night he persuaded me to consult the hostel manager.
He sent me directly to a doctor in the neighbourhood, who by some MIRACLE was still at work .
The doctor examined my leg, shook his head solemnly and said in a wonderfully accented English:
“Eets very lucky you come see me tonight. Tomorrow, I would have to take your leg off!”
He gave me a shot of penicillin and a week’s supply, with a single needle to inject it–brave Chris’ job.
I was in bed for seven days–and the needle got blunter and blunter.
But I kept my leg.
Life might have been so different!
I eventually saw the film at the Odeon Leicester Square and thought I caught a glimpse of a very thin ME clambering over rocks with other desert rats–but I wouldn’t swear to it.
Robin Ellis 
Hello Meredith and Robin and Happy Birthday Robin, from a very green but very grey day in Los Angeles! My greatest memory of Rome from the summer of 1961 was having a swim in the 1960 Olympics competition pool. My current assignment is to find something similar to puntarelle at our local farmers’ market. THAT salad looks delicious. Thank you.
Good luck!
I love the photo of the old and new side by side. My daughter was there last year and was surprised by how many buildings and archaeological artefacts were being allowed to fall into disrepair. I suppose when a place has such a wealth of history it’s impossible to maintain it all.
Not sure I fancy the fried artichoke,it looks like an extra from Little Shop of Horrors !
And very glad that you continued your career with both legs intact !
The leaves eat like crisps–delicious.
Oh …. the things we do in our youth, the thought of it now makes you take a sharp intake of breath. My children wouldn’t believe it … or approve of it maybe !!! But glorious memories. I wouldn’t have done anything differently. Look back and smile Robin.
What an amazing story! You have lead a charmed life, Robin. Be well in 2017!
wonderful story and pictures thank you … that puntarelle dish sounds delish … I’m one of few people i know who loves anchovies for accent
what would Caesar Salad be without them?
Thank you, Mr. Ellis, for the historic tour! I’ll never get to Rome so this was a great look at not only the food but the lives lived!
What was the infection in your leg? I ask because in 2011 by Mum, 71 at the time, did have her leg amputated due to a disease that crept up her right leg.
Robin, you are such a wonderful story teller, this whole post was a delight to read. So relieved you kept your leg, what a scary incident. What a wonderful and scrumptious birthday celebration you had, so happy you celebrated 75 years young.
Thanks, Victoria–I’m at relieved as you are!
Robin, I hope my visit to Rome later this year is a bit less adventurous. (At least I travel with my own medical staff. 😉 ) Thanks for the culinary suggestions!
Hi, Chris–at least she’d have a second needle “up her sleeve”!
Hi, Robin, Great photos. However….puntarelle and artichokes??? Are you trying to torment everyone? Sadistic, to say the least. xo
I miss them already.
Robin,
Happy Birthday and many happy returns to enjoy with Meredith.
The pictures from Rome are wonderful.
MARLA
Thanks Marla for the good wishes.
Did you ever sort out what was up with your leg??? What a tale.
What a great 75th birthday trip.
Cheers and Happy Birthday!
Belated Happy Birthday. Agree that Rome is such a great place for walking and eating. Had my best ever pizza in a neighbourhood restaurant in Trastevere. Simple but delicious
Simple and delicious does it for me!
Dear Robin:
Happy Birthday –wishing you many more happy and healthy ones. What a great idea to go to Rome to celebrate the date. For your next trip, consider the Landmark Trust two-bedroom apartment at the Piazza di Spagna. It is upstairs from the apartment the Trust maintains in which John Keats spent his final days.
On an earlier trip there I visited Cinecitta, which is now open to the public –what an experience! Rome is one delight after another.
All best from your neighbor in the Minervois,
Marta Varela
That’s a great tip, Marta–thanks. We will.
Robin: That was delightful–first a tour of Rome, sometimes of sights we haven’t seen yet, then a tour of early Robin, both very very evocative, first of the Rome we too have spent so much time in, and then of those years when we constantly went places on no money, just like you. Well done.
Bless you, Bob–and thank you. We did love it and it, as you see, jogged the memory.
Wow, that is quite a remembrance. I lived in Rome with my family in the late 60’s. A very different Rome then. As teens and girls we were safe to travel about in the evening as a group, not so today. Some of the charm of Rome has gone, but my husband and I enjoyed two trips to Italy 50 years after my first stay. We still loved it!
There’s still much to love.
I can’t believe it! The coincidence is amazing! I live in Italy, just 100 km north of Rome . I knew nothing about you I admit, until the new production of Poldark made me curious about the old one and I ordered the DVD’s of the 1975 production. This afternoon (15th Jan 2017) when I’d finished watching Poldark 1975 , I began sufring around to see what I could find out about the cast … when I clicked on your name, there you were in front of Palazzo Farnese!!! Belated Birthday greetings and thanks for your wonderful performance . Aidan Turner is a great professional too, but you certainly set a standard which he may meet but not surpass. Thank you so much.
Caitriona Nic Carthaigh ,
Montefiascone, Viterbo
Catriona, thank you!
We had a wonderful time.
A couple of years ago I was given some fagioli from Viterbo–the little ones.
I loved them and managed to find some in the Carrefour just off Campo di Fiori the morning we left. Coincidences are fun!
I thoroughly enjoyed your account! (especially the fried artichokes!) The last time I was there was in 1989 as part of a chorale tour, and–you guessed it– we sang for the Pope at his summer residence in Castel Gandolfo. Except it was the heat that was unbearable! The streets were remarkably quiet because citizens were smart to head to the water to cool off!
Nice memory, Anita.
Robin – You always manage to weave in lovely stories (aka memories) among the your delicious recipes. Happy New Year.
Norma
Thanks Norma and the same to you both.
Great story! I have just spent 2 weeks in London going to the theatre, just wonderful! Saw an excellent “An Inspector Calls” and was delighted to find your “cousin” Clive Francis in a leading role. He was terrific but seems to have aged, unlike you and me!😆
Sent from my iPhone
>
I saw Clive a year ago and thought he was looking good!
What a story!
An infection can travel very fast, so you were lucky indeed.
Rome is an amazing city, and that artichoke looks delicious, by the way!
Hi Genie–it was delicious and I shall try to reproduce it.
Great story Robin! We love Rome too and you went to scream,of our favourite places. Joan
Sent from my iPad 0416194228
>
HAPPY HAPPY BIRTHDAY!!!
LOVE AND THANK YOU FOR PHOTOS OF YOUR TRIP
WISH YOU COULD SEND ME THOSE INCREDIBLE FRIED ARTICHOKES………..
GLAD YOUR LEG IS WELL TOO
MANY MEOWS FROM BROOKLYN NY!!!!!!!!
Thank you so much for sharing so much of your life with us. I became a fan because of your work on the original Poldark , which I caught on Netflix about four years ago. After doing some research I found your blog and now I am a even bigger fan of yours due to the enjoyment I get out of keeping up with you and Meredith. I live in the US and you have given me a glimpse of the French countryside as well as other places you travel to, that I would otherwise not experience. I also enjoy the many photos and stories of the your beloved cats and their Comings and goings. Please keep up the wonderful work. Tell Meredith I think her photography is terrific! Have been watching the new Poldark series and you sure make a great curmudgeon of a Judge!!
Happy Birthday! Many more to come!
Thanks Jo Ann for those kind comments. Meredith was to hear happy you like her photos. She is V talented I think.
Oh, Robin, you are full of surprises! 🎉
I’m trying to spot you, but there are too many “Very Thin Desert Rats” in the movie! 😅
Impossible sadly!
Wow ! What a memory, So glad the doc was available Infections and sepsis can be quite deadly. Glad you handled it well.. Rome is just the best place to eat and drink. When I think of her. I think of her golden glow particularly at dusk, the food and the people and her history around every corner and the art. Happy belated birthday too. Have a great year. barb
Same to you, Barb and thank you.
Sounds like a fabulous birthday trip. Thanks for the wonderful anecdotes, current and past.
You might like to take a look at http://www.atlasobscura.com/places/worlds-largest-artichoke-statue in Castroville, in Monterey County, CA.
Unfortunately, reviews for the restaurant behind it range all over the place. I think their fried artichokes are nothing like Carciofi alla giudìa, for which there is a recipe, in Italian (which I think I can figure out, from French and Latin classes) at http://cosefatteincasa.it/2013/03/21/carciofi-alla-giudia/ This one’s in English: http://www.italiantourism.com/carciofi.html
I happened upon Carciofi alla giudìa a week or so ago, perhaps after hopping to Wikipedia’s entry on artichoke, from an NPR story on food. It looks tasty, and as it doesn’t seem to require a deep-fryer, I may attempt it soon, after I find out if I can make roasted carrot soup with ginger and coconut milk to suit me–might use some lemongrass or some “Thai seasoning”.
Since all the photos only show the stem side, and never mention the choke, is the choke removed before cooking? I should think so, but you’ve eaten one and I have not–but I look forward to trying it.
If you want some good artichokes, go back to Rt. 1, and take the road to the spit of land on the other side of the harbor to Phil’s Fish Market in Moss Landing, where the MBARI, the Monterey Bay Aquarium Research Institute vessels are docked. As a Babylon 5 fan, I have a hard time NOT calling it mimbari.
The artichoke dish at Phil’s which I favor, Fire Roasted (marinated, charbroiled and served with Aioli), was an experiment a dozen years or more ago, but has stayed on the menu.
Counterintuitively, the cap observant Jewish men wear is spelt “yarmulke” in Yiddish, and kippah, also spelled as kippa or kipah (plural is kippot), in Modern Hebrew. In college, I hung out with a lot of Jewish students, especially the ones in the Hebrew section of the language dorm (I was in the French section).
Would a Cornish version of Puntarelle use pilchards instead of anchovies?
Marina in San Jose
I hope this is not a duplicate comment–it appears that what I wrote didn’t go through. If it is, my apologies for impatience!
You might like to take a look at http://www.atlasobscura.com/places/worlds-largest-artichoke-statue in Castroville, in Monterey County, CA.
Unfortunately, reviews for the restaurant behind it range all over the place. I think their fried artichokes are nothing like Carciofi alla giudìa, for which there is a recipe, in Italian (which I think I can figure out, from French and Latin classes) at http://cosefatteincasa.it/2013/03/21/carciofi-alla-giudia/ This one’s in English: http://www.italiantourism.com/carciofi.html
I happened upon Carciofi alla giudìa a week or so ago, perhaps after hopping to Wikipedia’s entry on artichoke, from an NPR story on food. It looks tasty, and as it doesn’t seem to require a deep-fryer, I may attempt it soon, after I find out if I can make roasted carrot soup with ginger and coconut milk to suit me–might use some lemongrass or some “Thai seasoning”.
Since all the photos only show the stem side, and never mention the choke, is the choke removed before cooking? I should think so, but you’ve eaten one and I have not–but I look forward to trying it.
If you want some good artichokes, go back to Rt. 1, and take the road to the spit of land on the other side of the harbor to Phil’s Fish Market in Moss Landing, where the MBARI, the Monterey Bay Aquarium Research Institute vessels are docked. As a Babylon 5 fan, I have a hard time NOT calling it mimbari.
The artichoke dish at Phil’s which I favor, Fire Roasted (marinated, charbroiled and served with Aioli), was an experiment a dozen years or more ago, but has stayed on the menu.
Counterintuitively, the cap observant Jewish men wear is spelt “yarmulke” in Yiddish, and kippah, also spelled as kippa or kipah (plural is kippot), in Modern Hebrew. In college, I hung out with a lot of Jewish students, especially the ones in the Hebrew section of the language dorm (I was in the French section).
Would a Cornish version of Puntarelle use pilchards instead of anchovies?
Marina in San Jose
When you’re young food doesn’t register much except when you get really starving! I recently found a picture of myself in 1970 at the Hilton Hotel for the ITV Christmas dinner. The only thing I remember about the food was it was the first time I ate cavier – gritty and tasted like fish FOOD!! I remember walking back to Knightsbridge and getting my heels caught in the pavement, and the tube being shut!! Got a taxi home – talking of legs – cost an arm and a leg! Happy adventures Robin.
Fascinating story! Not surprised to hear that you’ve been rather fearless since an early age. (And now I really want to try fried artichoke!)
Buon natale, Robin! Always a delight to find a post from you, but especially one from Rome. Ah, the Castel Santangelo (sp?), where Tosca had that fatal encounter with Scarpia!
Your account brings back distant memories of a too brief stay in 1955 (!) while hitchhiking from Strasbourg to Greece and back with my then boyfriend. Don’t remember the food (we lived Spartanly) but do remember the sculptures, the Colisseum, and ancient history everywhere.
I’ll be thinking of you – and Rome – as I eat Marcella Hazan’s “pasta huntsman style” (with dried and fresh mushrooms, garlic, tomatoes, parsley). I’m sure you know it. Perfect for a cold, snowy day in Santa Fe.
Salute,
Nancy, NM
Beat me by six years–impressive! I have thought to do that recipe for years–now i will, thanks Nancy.
It’s a delicious cold weather meal – with a salad, red wine & cheese!
Dear Robin
I salute you on our mutual birthday! One year apart—happily, you’re a year old that I am. I seldom meet an Capricornian, let alone a Cappy with Jan 8 as a birthday. It’s a nice feeling. Wonderful raconteuring as usual. I went to Rome in 1990 and loved it and Italy—Patheon and Vatican Museum standout; unfortunately, the fine dining was more elusive, but that’s how it goes sometimes. The artichokes look divine—thanks for all your stories and recipes.
Stevie de Longmont
Happy Birthday to you, fellow Capricorn and many more of them!
I loved your Rome adventures. Beautiful photographs and the food looked delicious!
Glad to hear that you found help for your foot, too. That had to have been scary.
V Scary in retrospect!
Happy birthday Robin! Im a capricorn too, twas 54 on the 11th.
Loved that wee story! And im glad you kept your leg. Brilliant photos as always. cheers Maurice in glasgow.
Many Happy Returns, Maurice!
Hey Robin!!! Rosaria here from Italy!! I’m very glad to know that you have chosen Italy and Rome to celebrate your birthday with your friends! I’m so proud of my country! So you have savoured a lot of new and delicious dishes!!!! And the story you have written is very nice! Happy birthday again and many happy returns! See you!
Thanks Rosaria!
Looking forward to a next visit of you and Meredith, Robin!!! Maybe you should hold a Mediterranean Italian cooking workshop here!!!! Ciao ciao
That would cheeky!
A belated happy birthday. You and Meredith appear to have eaten your way through your holiday. I was in Rome one summer for 4 weeks with my husband and daughters and I remember that it felt like a palimpsest. Everywhere one turned a different level of history to be explored.