To Giroussens–the red brick village in the Tarn with a magnificent view and the clay that makes pottery–for the annual ceramics fair [foire].
The last weekend in April every year potters and ceramic artists from all over Europe come to this small village perched on a bluff above the river Agout to display and sell.
The normally sleepy streets are a-bustle with late arrivals setting up and punters scanning the stalls on a gentle walk-through before lunch.
The village’s dignified chateau sits above it all, now depending for its authority on tradition, as the shuttered windows show no signs of life.
The work varies from the practical to the fanciful
…and caters to all tastes!
Stalls stacked with salad bowls and all manner of tableware…
…stand next to elaborate sculptures in clay some of which might frighten the neighbors on a visit.
The village was a regular lunch stop for us in the early days when we lived the double life of a home in London and this new adventure in the Tarn.
A quarter of a century ago–the early flight from Heathrow to Toulouse would give us time to make the restaurant L’Echauguette (watchtower) for a late-ish lunch.
The Maitre d’ in his navy blazer with brass buttons ran Front of House with a steely discipline, learned in the military perhaps and his talented wife made a meal that Elizabeth David* would have been happy to find on her travels 40 years earlier.
We always looked forward to lunch at l’Echauguette and we always arrived at the house here with a package or two of pottery, wrapped with care in newspaper, purchased after lunch from Martine Lévêque, the village’s resident potter.
Most of it is still in daily use, much loved by one and all!
Yesterday we added some more from a different potter (Martine is retired now), wrapped with equal care.
It carried this evening’s pasta!
Sadly the old soldier and his wife sold up–and the restaurant is new hands.
Elizabeth David would not be so happy today!
Though after an undistinguished lunch she’d have found other things to amuse her as she scanned the stalls for treasure.
Delightful!
Robin, thank you for sharing! I’m an artist in California and appreciate the talent and work required to do pottery. I love the whimsical pieces, which are sooo French! Wish I could have been there. Linda
Robin, we remember being at this fair with Meredith two years ago, and have a couple of small items we purchased there here at our place in Santa Fe. Meredith might remember the end of that lovely afternoon when the four of us drove off, leaving her waiting for your rescue with an extra set of car keys! Love to you both, Randi and Izzy
Hi Randi and Izzy in Santa Fe–wow time passes. Well we had a good time!Meredith will see this rxx
Nice pieces indeed, the ” French Faience ” (pottery) is well knowed, myself I like the old ones Sarrequemines Majolica lovely with the fruit in relief and so nice glaced.Chantal x.
Some of the pieces are very creative. What a fun trip for the week end!
I feel so jealous. I went to a craft fair here in NJ yesterday and your pictures put it to shame. Wish I was there. Debbie
I have no resistance when it comes to pottery and glass and I treasure the pieces I’ve bought while traveling. A ceramics fair would be heaven.
Absolutely delightful to hear about this Foire. I will probably not get to go to France but to hear about it in this way is so fun. Thanks!
Sounds & looks delightful! Wish I could have been there. Would love to have some of the whimsical pieces. So imaginative. Thanks for sending us an account, illustrated with great photos. Keep ’em coming.
Nancy, Santa Fe
Thank you so much for sharing this experience with us. 🙂 I have never heard of such a venue. How absolutely marvelous!!!! It has been far too many years since I last worked with clay. You may have helped inspire me to “get back to business” as my youngest son keeps nagging and telling me of late.
Thanks for the little cultural tour. Ceramics are one of my keen interests.
Such charming work.
I like the pieces Beau picked out. 😉
Thanks for your interesting posting. I love that you are sharing your fun in Europe with all your fans. I am one of your biggest – well oldest, anyway – at 87. Keep me posted about any new Poldark films that might make their way to the U. S. I;m in Los Gatos, California. Best wishes to your and yours,
Lea Frey
Thanks for the photo of Elizabeth David. She was so pretty!
Is this faire where you picked up the delightful dish with the buxom belles on, which sometimes features in your wonderful photos?
In fact they were on display in the restaurant. The Maitre d’with the brass buttons was a bit of a local art dealer on the side.