Doing the tunnels is the only option.
There is no escape if you are driving from southeast France to Tuscany.
The tunnels thread through the Ligurian hillsides that slope down to the Mediterranean water’s edge. Some are just a few hundred feet long, others a mile or more. We count them for fun and tally 136!
It’s the slow lane for us on the last leg of our annual journey to Tuscany and the olive harvest.
There are some great sea views, if you’re not driving. It can feel a little ‘hairy’ at times, as a big black beetle-like vehicle–you wouldn’t call it a car–hurtles past, followed closely by a purring, predatory Porsche.
Sunday morning and we’re making for a little bar/ristorante in Marina di Carrara called Ciccio. We found it by chance years ago–as sometimes happens with the favourite places.
The restaurant looks onto the port from where the historic Carrara marble–still being cut out of the hillside–is shipped.
The cranes and modern lifting machinery make us wonder–in both senses–how Michelangelo transported the huge marble block back to Florence and the workshop where he fashioned the David.
Meredith has the seasonal ‘special’ in mind–freshly made spaghetti in a cream sauce with black truffles. She had it once years ago and has never forgotten it.
Today the truffle is the rare white variety (though perversely a browny pink in colour).
Then it’s ordered–for both of us. (I decide to live dangerously and indulge!)
Meredith is delighted, though she says when we’re back in the car ‘On the whole I think I prefer the black truffle best…’ Well…!
We head off back to the autostrada, truffled out but happy the tunnels are behind us.
Marble mountain
Robin Ellis 
Thank you for your pictures and prose about Italy and the food. I long for Italy but can no longer travel there because of ill health. I have fond memories of a year in Rome as a high school junior and visiting northern Italy twice with my husband ( our son was stationed at Aviano ). Thank you again!
Nice! Thanks for the report, it brings back (nice) memories from that region.
Hope you both are well.
Thanks Steven–yes and hope you both are too!
I’m so thrilled for you both! While Joel and I saw much of France on our honeymoon, we never went south, and I’ve never seen Italy. Looks just spectacular! Now do you feel tempted to try truffle dishes yourselves?
All the best,
Nancy N
First find the truffles!
Hello Robin & Merdith,Drove trough Carrara many years ago .Remembered it very well so many big sheets of gorgeous marble.It was told that the marble was half the price overthere and the best quality of the world.Have fun overthere, I hope there’s more sun in Toscana then here.Many hughs of rainy , damp, cold Antwerp xxx.
The tunnels look interesting. The drive looks wonderful. How long will you be visiting there?
Robin, love your trip description and the little details like the cranes at the Port, the truffles, the tunnels you drove through etc, as it brings your pictures alive. Glorious mountains in Italy – makes me want to come back to Europe, but really any excuse would do!
Hey, the photographer is finally photographed! Great picture! And what a view of the mountains–though they look pretty chilly! Sounds like you’re both having a great trip! Have fun!!
Wish you both a safe and happy journey and fair wind to sunny Tuscany…
I’m heading off to Cork in an hour, nothing as interesting as truffles to stop off for!
Your journey more picturesque and interesting than mine with a delicious meal thrown in for good measure.
The food looks very nice….I simply love Meredith’s hair and hope I can get mine to look as good as hers does!
Oh Robin, I am very happy you both having great time and good food. can’t wait to be next Saturday. Love, Bea.
We too, Beatrice!
Wow! Truffles!!!!!
I am forced to live vicariously through this post. Oh, MY does Meredith’s dish look heavenly! Sadly, I have never tasted a truffle but have had truffel oil I suppose I can make a poor USA woman’s version of this. Would love to taste a truffle one day Alas……….
So this was an opportunity to meet you, we live close to the Ciccio’s restaurant!
If you and Meredith come back and want to visit Carrara and the marble quarries we would be happy to be your guide.
We hope to meet you soon!
So this was an opportunity to meet you, we live close to Ciccio’s restaurant!
If you and Meredith come back and want to visit Carrara and the marble quarries we would happy to be your guide.
We hope to meet you soon!
That would be splendid–thank you.
We always love seeing the white quarries come into sight from the motorway–and it means lunch is near!
We look forward to seeing you very soon at Ciccio restaurant for the lunch! You’ll be our guests!
Thank you!
Caio!