Back in the days when I used to frequent Italian restaurants in London–
(frequent being the operative word, often seen in them in other words: “Meesta Ailees–good to see you again!“–so flattering.)
—chicken paillard with a side order of spagetti in tomato sauce was a regular choice. The combination felt very Italian though I’m still not sure about that*.
It was a specialty of the chef at La Famiglia in Chelsea,
where they also served the quaintly named teenage lamb cutlets–we knew what they meant, but it brought a smile.
It was/is owned by the now legendary Alvaro Maccioni.
Originally from Vinci, northwest of Florence, Alvaro learned his trade at Mario and Franco’s La Terrazza in Soho and before opening La Famiglia ran a nightclub on the King’s Road in the swinging Sixties.
“A lot of Italian restaurants in London have lost touch with their roots. I say to my chefs that if you can cook like your mother then you are a good chef, but if you can cook like your grandmother then you are a great chef.”
Sunday night was his night off; he and his family always watched Poldark–he told me.
I was lunching there one day with Ralph Bates–villainous George Warleggan in the series.
Alvaro approached our table looking grim–offended even.
“Whatsa thees?! Thees isa not right–you are ‘ere widge your enemee?”
A couple of weeks later Angharad Rees (aka Demelza) and I were at the same table.
A beaming Alvaro came over and said loudly, “Thatsa bedder–you are widge you’re a whyfe!”
Chicken Paillard
2 chicken breasts–fat removed
for the brief marinade
2 tablespoons each of olive oil and lemon juice plus the zest of a lemon–whisked together
salt and pepper
for a simple sauce
Whisk together:
1 tablespoon of lemon juice
3 tablespoons olive oil
salt and pepper
- On a chopping board, lay out a sheet of clingfilm at least twice the width of the breast you are about to beat.
- (Putting a folded dish cloth or drying cloth under the board helps to keep it in place).
- Carefully place a breast in the middle of the sheet.
- Lay a second sheet of the same size over the breast.
- Using a rolling pin, mallet or similarly heavy kitchen utensil–beat the breast to flatten and widen it, taking care not to damage it.
beaten breast next to uneaten breast
- Repeat the process with the second breast.
- Peal back the clingfilm and place the first breast on a large plate.
- Pour some of the marinade evenly over the chicken.
- Place the second breast on top and pour over the rest of the marinade.
- Move the breasts round some to coat them in the mixture and leave for half an hour.
- Heat a grill pad or large frying pan on top of the stove.
- Season the breasts and place them on the heat.
- Two minutes each side should do it–though it depends on the thinness you’ve achieved, the thinner the quicker…
- Remove to a serving plate and pour over some of the sauce.
A fresh green salad is a good accompaniment–and/or, as above, some beans.
* This is a question for regular commentator Beatrice Papi to answer perhaps–would this be a strange combination to ask for in Florence, Beatrice?
Robin Ellis 
Hello,I love chicken looks nice.It’s also good with pita bread and fresh veggie’s.
For the moment my life is a bit hectic my dad passed away last Sunday, reading your blog is a nice sparkle in these sad stressful days, hughs your friend Chantal xxx.
Dear Chantal–I’m sorry to hear that your father has died. Meredith and I send you our condolences and wish you well through this, as you say, sad and stressful time.
Thank you so much Robin & Merdith.Kindly regards, William & Chantal.
La Famiglia was my favorite restaurant and Alvaro was a dear friend… Thank you for this recipe!!!! HUgs, Jill
We should meet there for lunch sometime. That would be nice. Maybe Angharad would join!
Do I recognize Jill as Elisabeth in the Poldark series?? And are you sure you will go out having lunch with Elisabeth and Demelza together? …..
Well–life’s too short!
My favorite chicken recipe. Also, with the addition of poultry seasoning…it is “Cornell sauce” of upstate NY. Also good with a few cloves of garlic (roasted or not).
Sorry to have missed your US tour – I got behind on my blog reading and you were leaving before I found out.
I have to tell you that you appeared in one of my dreams lately…I had to prepare a meal for a large family gathering, but no one would tell me how many would be at dinner! To add to the difficulties, we were in a remote area with scant provisions and horrendous prices. As I stood in the kitchen in a near panic…what shall I do!…you were standing to the side, making suggestions, in a calm, even toned voice. I must have had this dream after I saw your video on making pesto, having heard your *real* voice for the first time. I guess in my mind you are no longer the cranky Cap’n Poldark, but rather the calm chef.
Your “accent” had us in stitches!!
Recipe sounds really good! Will have to try it–but a single portion for me. Hubby won’t eat chicken due to a terrible childhood memory of a little chick that used to follow him around everywhere at his grandmother’s…then one day disappeared! You can guess the rest… 😦
How many talents have you got in your pockets, dear Robin? I still watch with great pleasure “Poldark” 1 and 2 series and every time I discover something new – an inspiring acting. You are a writer and also an author. A superb and a very generous chef eager to share your knowledge with other people. This morning I have enjoyed reading so very much your reminiscences of “La Famiglia” in London. A linguist as well? You most probably wouldn’t have any difficulty to “pick up” the accents of these two Roman languages… Coming down to “terra, mia terra” I wonder what other spices would be “comme il faut” to use in the marinade and the sauce? Thank you.
Dear Robin, many thanks for your trust in me!!! Really, this is a combination for a normal Italian’s lunch. Perfect for the week end when family are at home in relax, and also perfect for a good, simple and health foods. Very often I used beans “cannellini-zolfini”, boiled and dressing with extra-vergine olive oil and pepe. Few salt only in the water when boiled…. deliciuos. I am thinking about the price of “zolfini”…about 8,00/9,00 €. per 250gr. Just a food for big-holidays…but if you taste this, you are really on holidays ;))
Have a great week end Robin & Meredith, love Bea!!
p.s.have you same pics of you and Angharad at restaurant???
Thanks Beatrice–next time we’re in Firenze I’ll look out for zolfini beans and start saving up now!
No pics I’m afraid.