Robin Ellis

The Pyrénées just visible this morning from the ramparts of Lautrec.

The name is not attractive–sounds a bit like what afflicted Michael Gambon in a Dennis Potter film some years ago.

It actually means fish cooked with a lot of garlic.

This is a classic Greek village dish–traditionally taken to the local  bakery’s oven in the morning, to be ready by lunchtime.

Rena Salaman, in her book Greek Food, says the fish you chose was determined by the importance of the occasion.

It’s just the two of us tonight, so when I saw that the Friday fishmonger in Lautrec was selling pollack—lieu jaune–for 11 euros a kilo, I figured this was the moment to try this eco-friendly fish.

The fish stall in Lautrec this morning

I asked him to fillet it, which he did in a trice.

I complimented him: “Vous avez le savoir -faire, Monsieur!”  He has the proper knife too.

(You can cook the fish whole, of course.)

A whole pollack on the stall

This is adapted from Rena Salamon’s excellent book.

The fillets weigh just over 8oz/250gms each.

for 2

2 pollack fillets– about half a pound each. You could choose haddock, cod, monkfish, red or grey mullet or other firm-fleshed white fish

juice of a lemon

3 tablespoons olive oil

2 medium onions–finely sliced

1 stick of celery–finely sliced

4 cloves of garlic–finely sliced

1lb/450gms tin of tomatoes–drained of juice and broken up

2 tablespoons parsley–finely chopped

1 small wine glass of white wine

salt and freshly milled black pepper

2 tablespoons wholewheat/rye breadcrumbs

Oil a baking dish that will hold the fillets with a tablespoon of the oil.

Lay the fillets–cut into pieces or whole–in the dish.

Pour over the lemon juice and season with salt and pepper.

Leave to marinate for about an hour.

Heat the oven to 180C/350F.

Gently sauté the onions, garlic and celery  until they collapse–being careful not to brown them.

Add the tomatoes and the wine to the onions, garlic and celery.

Mix and season well.

Cook this gently for 15-20 minutes.

Add the parsley and cook for a further few minutes.

Spoon this mixture over the fish and sprinkle with breadcrumbs.

Bake in the centre of the oven for 30-40 minutes.