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Archive for the ‘other sides to this life’ Category

Back in the days before enlightenment–BE or rather BMbefore Meredithdespairing black moods regularly followed perceived failure, chez-moi.

“Buck up”–my mother used to say—“failure is character building”!

“Don’t make it worse, Ma!”

The first night of the RSC’s  production of King Lear in the 1976 Stratford season was one such occasion.

Donald Sinden (Lear) and Judi Dench (Regan) among the cast.

I was playing Edmund, the bastard son of Gloucester.

The famous speech/soliliquy which ends–“Now God–stand up for bastards!” had gone over well during the three weeks (too long) of previews, with some morale-boosting laughs.

Come press night, the first 7 or 8 rows of critics sit stony-faced–they’d seen King Lear countless times.

Not a squeak, not a giggle and no visible smiles–just an aggressive (as I heard it) silence.

I am unnerved and later fluff a line.

The result is–Black Dog!

Poor proud parents have to endure a post-play drink with an inconsolable zombie son.

They do get to meet Judi Dench–ebullient as ever; though I was never sure she enjoyed playing Regan!

Scroll down the years to last night.

I tried out a new dish involving butternut squash and green split peas.

Failure!

The peas wouldn’t soften and the squash was tough.

The spicy sauce wasn’t bad, but the time it had all taken to cook was demoralizing.

Was I downhearted? Of course not! It’s PM now, I’m forty years older–that would be silly!

I awoke this morning, though, in need for something completely different: lamb chops? Sausages?

I drove to Lautrec’s Friday market.

Sausages–fait mason [made by the butcher]–won the day and here is the result:

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A one pot dish inspired by a recipe in the second Riverford Farm cookbook.

Celery and fennel make for good companions with the modest amount of sausage.

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Kale or Swiss chard can substitute for the spinach–or you can just  omit the greens.

for 3/4

1 tbsp olive oil

450gm/1 lb good quality pork sausages

50 gm/2oz bacon–diced

2 medium onions–sliced

2 garlic cloves–pulped in a little salt

8oz celery–cut into inch-size chunks

1 large fennel bulb–outer leaves removed, halved vertically and then each half carefully divided into eight pieces. (This helps them become tender quicker!)

2 bay leaves 

a good sprig of fresh thyme

1 tbs tomato concentrate

100ml red wine–a small wine glass

600ml stock–I use organic vegetable stock cubes

4 tsp dijon mustard

8oz spinach–washed and thick stems removed

400gms cooked white beans from a tin [can] or jar

salt and pepper

  • Sauté the sausages and bacon in the olive oil for 10 minutes in a pan large enough to hold all the ingredients.
  • Remove the sausages to a plate.
  • Sauté the onions and garlic gently in the pan until the onions soften and turn opaque; take care not to let them burn on the bottom of the pan.

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  • Add the fennel, the celery, tomato concentrate and herbs

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  • Turn everything over thoroughly.

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  • Add the red wine and mix again, scraping up the good bits as you go!
  • Add the stock, the saved sausages and stir in the mustard.
  • Bring the pan to a simmer and leave it to bubble gently for about 20 minutes.

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  • Check the seasoning. I found it didn’t require added salt–the bacon and stock cube were sufficiently salty–but added some freshly-milled black pepper.
  • Spread the greens over the top of the dish and leave them for ten minutes to start dissolving into it. (Cover the pan if you feel the need).IMG_1218
  • Gently stir in the greens and add the beans.
  • Cook for a further few minutes to heat through.

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We had the dish for lunch served over half a baked sweet potato each.

Success!

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This recipe is from my new book,  Healthy Eating for Life.

I was going to try out a new dish using the cooked Puy lentils left over from lunch yesterday, but changed my mind–and settled on this soupy supper instead.

I found a small cabbage sitting in the fridge, patiently waiting its turn…

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Red lentils with cabbage and tomatoes

Rose Elliott adapted this from a recipe in Julie Sahni’s Classic Indian Vegetarian Cookery. I have tweaked it a bit more.

for 4

250gms/8oz red lentils

2 1/4 pints/1300ml stock–I use organic vegetable stock cubes

1/3 tsp turmeric

375gms/12oz tinned [canned] tomatoes–chopped

  • Rinse the lentils thoroughly.
  • Put them in a saucepan with the stock and the turmeric and bring up to the boil.
  • Cook at a gentle simmer for 45 minutes.
  • Add the chopped tomatoes then set aside.

1 tbsp olive oil

1 1/2 tsp black mustard seeds

1 tbsp curry powder–(your choice how hot!)

onion–chopped

a small cabbage–outer leaves removed, quartered, cored and shredded

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Juice of half a lemon

salt and pepper

Parsley or better still fresh coriander–chopped to sprinkle over

  • Heat the oil in a new pan.
  • Add the mustard seeds and cook them until they start to pop–a couple of minutes.
  • Mix in the curry powder.

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  • Add the onion and the cabbage and mix everything together well.

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  • Cover the pan and cook for 5 minutes.
  • Add the wilted cabbage to the lentils.
  • Bring the mixture up to the simmer.
  • Leave it to simmer gently for 20 minutes.
  • Season to taste with salt and pepper.
  • Stir in the lemon juice.

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  • Sprinkle over the parsley or coriander (none available chez nous ce soir!)

It’s best served hot.

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Described as ‘street food‘ in Yotem Ottolenghi’s cookbook Jerusalem, this is a marriage of simple ingredients made in heaven–i.e., chickpeas and cumin go together like a horse and carriage.

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I have some small leaf spinach in the fridge which needs to be eaten and Meredith’s still on the detox.

Spinach salad–I’m thinking.

No bacon though–one way to liven up raw spinach.

No feta/goat’s cheese either–another.

Nuts–yes, some cob nuts or walnuts roasted would do it.

Then I remember spotting Balilah street food in the book.

Eureka! Well, overstated perhaps, but turns out to be a good idea.

Dress the spinach leaves beforehand and add a pile of Balilah to the green expanse and you have a simple but delicious lunch.

450 gms cooked chickpeas–from a bottle preferably, but tinned [canned] if not

4 tbs spring [scallions] or red onions–sliced thinly

1 small lemon–peeled and de-pithed; then sliced as thin as possible with a sharp knife. Take your time–it’s worth it to get the freshness without too much tooth-grinding tartness at one bite

2.5 tsp ground cumin

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3 tbs olive oil (best quality possible)

salt and pepper

Drain the chickpeas from the jar/tin and reheat them gently in a little water (to keep them from drying out as they are warmed).

Drain, put in a bowl, add the olive oil and turn the chickpeas over in the oil.

Add the onion, cumin, lemon, salt and pepper and mix thoroughly.

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The spinach

3 good handfuls of young, small-leafed spinach (usually more tender for  eating raw)–washed and spun dry and laid out in a large salad bowl

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The vinaigrette:

Pulp a peeled garlic clove in a pinch of salt.

Mix in half a teaspoon of Dijon mustard.

Add a tablespoon of red wine vinegar and mix to a paste.

Add three or four tablespoons of olive oil.

Whisk together.

Pour a couple of tablespoons over the spinach and turn it over thoroughly.

Add the pile of Balilah to the centre of the green sward.

Serve.

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As part of the publicity for my new cook book, Healthy Eating for Life, I was interviewed  a couple of weeks back for the The Daily Express’ popular Saturday morning feature:

Whatever Happened to ???! 

Which puts me in mind of theFive lives of an actor”:

Runs like this:

Who is Robin Ellis?

What about Robin Ellis?

We must have Robin Ellis!

We need someone like Robin Ellis….

Whatever Happened to Robin Ellis…??

The good thing is that this sequence can recycle more than once!

(Click on the article to get a bigger, readable version.)
ExpressArticleJan'12(Apologies to those who have already been subjected to this on Facebook.)

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I published this recipe on the blog early on and am revisiting it tonight by special request.

It has been a favorite for over 30 years chez nous, and is a tasty standby for a rainy, grey day when going anywhere for supplies is the last thing you feel like doing.

Meredith, on her detox for a week, requested this dish, so we’re having it tonight with broccoli, (simply steamed, drizzled with olive oil, and a squeeze of lemon) and a some brown basmati rice.

It’s an Indian  Dal-but known in our house as ‘comfort lentils’.

This is from my first cook book Delicious Dishes for Diabetics.

for 4

500 g/1 lb red lentils

1 litre/1¾ pints/4 cups stock (I use an organic vegetable stock cube per 500 ml of water)

4 tbsp vegetable oil (I use olive oil.)

1 medium onion – chopped

1 tsp coriander seeds – pounded in a mortar and pestle

1½ tsp cumin seeds – pounded in a mortar and pestle

1 tsp garam masala

½ tsp chilli powder

  • Rinse the lentils very thoroughly – until the water shows clear.
  • Put them in a saucepan with the stock and bring gently to the boil.
  • Turn the heat down to low and let them simmer, covered, stirring from time to time.
  • They are done when a small puddle floats on the top.
  • Turn them off.
  • Heat the oil in a small frying pan.
  • Add the onion and fry gently until it colours nicely.
  • Add the spices and mix them in well.
  • Cook for a couple of minutes longer to release the aroma.
  • Add the cooked spices and the onion to the lentils and mix in thoroughly.
  • Heat through and serve.

Our Sikh friend, Tari, affectionately dubbed the ‘Carefree Cook’,  never panics when people turn up unexpectedly at mealtime. He looks to see how many extra guests are coming through the door and adds more water to the dal accordingly!

If there is dal left over, save it for another occasion! Form the cold dal into little burger shapes, coat with some chickpea or whole wheat flour and fry lightly in some hot oil.

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Blackie–outdoor cat

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is sitting quietly under the kitchen table this morning thinking about things.

She is the cat with no tail I wrote about last year.

She spends some mornings curled up on the whicker chair next to the fireplace–showing no inclination to hot foot it out the back door after eating a bowl of food, as she used to.

Beau–the Prince of the household
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has taken over the downstairs, even lounging full length on the kitchen table, usually the strictly controlled domain of Pippa, the mother of all cats,
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who lost an ally and a minder when Lucien died shortly before Christmas.

We wondered at first whether Pippa had noticed the passing of her surrogate son.
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When Marmalade and Butterscotch her own offspring died, she showed little sign of caring.
Back then the power balance in the house was unaffected. Pippa kept he position as head cat.
(The youngster Beauty was too busy performing acrobatic feats to waste time worrying where he stood in the pecking order and dear Lucien spent most of the day “on duty” in the garage guarding the cat-flap.)

It seems different now–and Pippa isn’t happy.

She eats upstairs and only comes down to go outside–maybe her way of maintaining the “high ground” that has always been her right, as she sees it.

Beau seems to be the cat causing the problem.
Pippa can’t set eyes on him without growling.
There have been fur-flying fights but we can’t judge who is starting them.
Beau loves a bit of roughhousing with “brother” Ben
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but is otherwise benign–a homebody it seems. Sleeping and eating (too much) are his concerns–a complacent cat is Beau.
Ambition to be top “dog” so to speak, does not feature on his agenda.

“Outdoors” are coming indoors–and indoors, it’s Upstairs Downstairs!
Our cat world is in flux–what to do?

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Good to be back!

A winter soup to welcome the New Year and re-open the blog, which has been virtually on hold while Healthy Eating for Life got launched.

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Not a great “looker” this soup, so Madame La Photographe added a touch of parsley.

Making this is a lovely long process, something to do on a cold rainy afternoon–like today.

Not a lot of work involved–most of the time the soup chugs away on its own on top of the stove .

Adapted from the inimitable and recently deceased Marcella Hazan, it sometimes features cooked sausages*–not here though.

Meredith is on a short de-tox regime–though she said not to worry about the ounce of smoked bacon that helps deepen the taste.

I’m writing this while it chugs.

4 tbls olive oil

1/2 a medium onion–chopped

2 garlic cloves–chopped

1 oz/25 gms smoked bacon–diced

1 lb/450 gms red cabbage–quartered (core sliced off) and roughly sliced

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1 celery stick–chopped

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3 medium tomatoes (tinned are best this time of the year)–chopped

1 tsp fresh thyme

1.25 pints stock–I use organic vegetable stock cubes

1.5 tsp salt

500 gms/18 oz cooked white beans (jar or tinned [canned]) drained–a rough figure depending on the tin/jar.

  • Heat the oil in a large saucepan and sauté the onion, garlic and bacon until they start to color–about twenty minutes.

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  • Add the tomatoes, cabbage and celery and mix thoroughly.
  • Allow the cabbage to soften completely–about 30 minutes.
  • Add the salt and stock, stir in and cover the pot.
  • Cook this on a very low heat, this is the chugging stage (you’ll hear it chugging!), for two hours– longer if you like!

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  • Then add half the beans–puréed–and stir them in.

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  • Cook on for ten minutes to heat them through before adding the rest of the beans.

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Stir them, cover the pan and let it chug-chug for 10 to 15 minutes longer.

Now the authentic Italian bit!

  • Lightly color two peeled and crushed garlic cloves in four tablespoons of olive oil.

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  • Off the heat add a teaspoon of chopped fresh rosemary.

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  • Pour the oil through a metal sieve into the soup and let it absorb the flavors while it cooks a further ten minutes.

* The sausages, if using, are browned in a separate pan and added, cut into chunks, after the main two hour “chug”!

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We are back in France after a week in London to launch my new book Healthy Eating for Life.

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Friends from N-S-E & W–some we hadn’t seen for years–came to Blenheim Crescent in Notting Hill on a rainy night last Thursday and were bemused and happy to meet others they themselves hadn’t seen for ages.

The publishing team from Constable and Robinson were out in force; marshaled by my editor Judith Mitchell they sailed round with plates of nibbles–cooked by resident cook Clara Grace Paul from recipes in my book.

It became more than just a launch party–it was a reunion.

In fact it was a blast!

Even the bookshop seriously underestimating the number of books they’d need in place–(they sold out just over half way through)–didn’t dampen the spirits!

Magician Meredith, the mistress of ceremonies, had surpassed herself–the book was on its way!

Next day I decided to give us/me a treat.

I bought Yotam Ottolenghi and Sami Tamimi’s newish cookbook.

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These two cooks, born on opposite sides in the divided city (one Israeli, the other Palestinian), met in London and have created a revolution in dining and eating.

Their food manages to be sumptuous and simple at the same time–and eminently cookable at home.

On Saturday the treat was extended to lunch at their small restaurant in Islington.

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They don’t take bookings so you wait in line;

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Forty minutes in our case–but we didn’t mind.

We passed the time staring at the heaving counter of prepared salads, trying to make up our minds what to eat–a mouth watering, morale-boosting exercise!

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“Please come forward–we can seat you now”

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We’d made our choices–here are mine–and settled down to enjoy our treats.

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top left to right: char-grilled broccoli with chili, butter bean hummus with caramalised red onions, green beans and mangetout with red salad leaves, grilled aubergine rounds topped with tahini!

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one happy punter sits opposite another!

…and did we!

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DRUMBEAT!!

Book-signing in London

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Thursday, JANUARY 16th

4-5pm

BOOKS for COOKS

4 BLENHEIM CRESCENT

LONDON W.8.
Notting Hill

I’ll be at this lovely, friendly bookshop that has more cookbooks in it than one could eat hot dinners in a lifetime,

signing my newly published cookbook

HEALTHY EATING for LIFE

(£6.99)

They have a nice café at the back of the shop for tea and delicious cake too!

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If you can’t be there but would like a signed copy, pre-order with the shop.

They will post it to you (plus p&p).

Books for Cooks

4 Blenheim Crescent
London W11 1NN
T 020 7221 1992
F 020 7221 1517
 info@booksforcooks.com
www.booksforcooks.com

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The fridge is in need of replenishment–post festivals.

This was only partially solved by a visit to Lautrec market this morning.

No fishmonger–obviously still in recovery from the New Year festivities.

They take New Year as seriously as the Scots here; so--seriously.

(We had a delivery of fire wood yesterday and Monsieur Reynaud [woodman] admitted he and his wife had returned home at 3am the previous morning.)

I came back from the market with a couple of leeks, two fennel bulbs and some eggs.

Eggs for lunch, but what to do for dinner?

A gratin? No–a curry.

It’s been a while and it would hit the spot!

Feeling lazy, I’ll peek on the web, I thought, looking for a good recipe….

First suggestion from Mr. Google:  Chickpea, leek and fennel curry from robin-ellis.net!!

This recipe appears in my new cookbook, Healthy Eating for Life, out 8th January–NEXT WEDNESDAY (my birthday!).

The recipe is inspired by Rose Elliot’s vegetarian cookbooks–on my shelf for ages and much thumbed!

First published in the 1970sher recipes have withstood the test of time–and the ingredients often fit with my way of eating.

for 4

1 tablespoon olive oil

1 teaspoon whole cumin seeds

1 small onion–chopped

1 clove of garlic–peeled & chopped

1/2  teaspoon of powdered cumin

1/2 teaspoon of powdered coriander

1/2 teaspoon each of garam masala ( an earlier post), turmeric, ground ginger

1/4 teaspoon cayenne/chili powder

1 teaspoon fresh root ginger–peeled & chopped (optional)

1 large jar of cooked chickpeas–drained (the precise quantity is not critical!)

fennel bulbs–outer leaves removed, quartered and chopped

1 large leek–damaged outer parts removed, cut down to the base, washed and sliced

2 tablespoons of parsley or coriander–chopped

1 pint of vegetable stock (I use organic cubes diluted with boiling water.)

  • Heat the oil in a pan.
  • Gently fry the cumin seeds until they start to pop.
  • Add the onion and garlic and soften–about 3 minutes.

  • Add the spices and mix them in.

  • Add the chickpeas.
  • Add the leeks and fennel and mix.

  • Add the stock–start with half a pint and adjust as needed.
  • Bring the mixture up to boil, then cover the pan and simmer for 20 minutes.

  • Fold in a tablespoon of parsley or coriander.
  • Sprinkle the second tablespoon of parsley or coriander over the dish when you serve it hot with…
  • Brown basmati rice and yogurt sauce.

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