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These knobbly numbers are Jerusalem Artichokes.

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They are doubly duplicitous.

The name has nothing to do with Jerusalem the town and even less to do with the noble globe artichoke.

It derives from a corruption of the Italian for sunflower–girosole-which, because of the way it sounds, morphed into Jerusalem.

Also known as sun chokes, sunroots, topinambor and earth apples they are a species of sunflower and originating from the eastern side of North America–their health benefits, especially for diabetics, are explained here.

Duplicitous, yes, but also delicious and especially here when mixed with capers, white wine and pieces of chicken.

Marcella Hazan devised this recipe.

One caveat–they do have a reputation for causing flatulence–but hey!

1 chicken–cut into pieces

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2 tbs olive oil

1lb Jerusalem artichokes–peeled and sliced thin in a food processor

2 garlic cloves–chopped

2 tbs capers–drained

2 tbs parsley–chopped

1 glass/6 tbs/4 fl oz white wine

salt and pepper

Heat the oil in a casserole with a lid and brown the chicken pieces (five minutes each side)

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Park them in a bowl.

Add the garlic and sauté briefly.

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Mix in the parsley, capers and wine before returning the chicken to the pan.

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Turn everything again and add the artichoke slices.

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Again turn everything over a couple of times and cover the pan.

Cook on a very low heat for 30 to 40 minutes.

It’s good to let the condensation moisten and tenderize the artichokes–so resist the temptation to lift the lid too often.

A couple of times is good to check the liquid–add a little water if it is drying out–and turn it all again.

IMG_1519We are seeing a movie tonight with some friends so I made this last night and stored it in the fridge.

I shall reheat it slowly when we get home and before you can say Jack Robinson or Jiminy Cricket, we’ll be sitting down tearing the chicken (and the movie) to pieces!

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The smokiness here comes from smoked paprika.

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It makes for a delightfully different take on a traditionally Italian way with eggs.

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This is adapted from Yotam Ottolenghi’s richer version. I have substituted coconut milk for the cream and lessened the amount of cheese.

I cooked it long and slow on top of the stove and managed to brown the top with a manoevre described below…still no oven or grill!

1 small cauliflower (or half a big one)

6 eggs

4 tbsp coconut milk*

2 tbsp Dijon mustard

75 gm/2.5 oz grated parmesan +25gm/1oz more for the topping

2 tsp smoked paprika

Steam the separated cauliflower florets to just tender and set aside.

In a bowl whisk together the coconut milk, the paprika and the mustard.

Add the eggs and carefully whisk them in.

Mix in the parmesan and season with salt and pepper.

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Heat the olive oil in a 26 cm (or 10 inch) frying pan.  Brown the cauliflower in one layer on one side for a couple of minutes (no need to turn them to brown them completely).

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Pour the eggy mix over the cauliflower–shake the pan a little to get an even distribution of cauliflower.

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Cook the frittata on the lowest possible heat, using a heat diffuser if you have one, until there is just a small pool of liquid left on the surface.

To brown, simply slide the pan under the grill for a minute.

With no oven or grill available, I had to be bold!

I laid a flat plate, roughly the circumference of the pan, on top of the frittata then with my left hand on the back of the plate and holding the pan’s handle with my right hand I flipped the whole thing over, then slid the frittata back into the pan to briefly brown the top.

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The challenge made me feel good–but I ran the risk of it all ending up on the floor!

I made the fennel and orange salad from my new cookbook, Healthy Eating for Life, to contrast  the blousy smokiness of the frittata.

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*The difference between coconut milk/cream and cream of coconut is fully explained here: 

http://www.thekitchn.com/whats-the-difference-coconut-m-75446/

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It looks like milk, it is NOT sweetened and it does NOT taste of coconut!

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“Troubles come not single spies but in battalions…” (Claudius in Hamlet)

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Russian actor Nikolai Massalitinov as Claudius with Olga Knipper as Gertrude, fully braced for “troubles”; in the Moscow Art Theatre production of Hamlet–a few years ago!

First it was the TV–no picture from the UK– satellite dish has to be larger now to receive the BBC; then the temperature control on the oven called it a day and now neither of the keys will open the car doors electronically.

And to cap it all in this catalogue of woes (or self pitying monologue), three recipes I was hoping to write up turned out to be duds!

Not exactly a battalion of troubles compared to this horror the folks in Cornwall have been facing.

But enough to tickle the imagination and set off a search for alternatives.

French TV or a good book/internet stuff by the fire? No contest for much of an evening.

No oven? no matter…

Top o’the stove to ye all me ‘arties!

Last night I remembered the spicy dal in the fridge from a couple of nights back–firm enough to form little patties to fry lightly in olive oil.

I had spotted some locally grown endive yesterday at Castres market–those torpedo shaped lettuce that intrigue, but can flummox too. What to do with them other than add to salad?

This recipe from my new book,  Healthy Eating for Life, suggests cooking them in the oven. But no working oven!

I excavated  one good fennel bulb left in the fridge too.

This recipe for pot-roasted fennel from my first cookbook, Delicious Dishes for Diabetics, sautés them slowly on top o’ the stove.

 

Solution: cook ’em together–on top!!

Sweet fennel, plus the faint bitterness of the endive, finished with squeeze of lemon.

I halved the prepared endives lengthwise to shorten the cooking; then browned them in two fluid ounces of olive oil on a medium flame, uncovered, with the fennel (sliced top to bottom in 8 pieces) and garlic (unpeeled), for ten minutes.

Added four fluid ounces of water to the pan and cooked the mix–covered–for a further twenty minutes–until the vegetables are tender.

We dined last night reflecting on how lucky we are to live in a rectory between a church and cemetery, on a rise where the rain runs downhill bypassing us.

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We say it often: The ancients knew a thing or two about where to build their sacred spots.

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Lunch is looming and I have it in mind for us to finish the spinach and red onion frittatta left-over from Saturday–with a green salad.

I have some difficulty finding the plastic box it’s stored in among the rest of the left-overs waiting their turn.

A pretty cabbage (red drumhead) is sitting in the fridge too, as cabbages and cauliflowers are wont to do.

One of the legion of left-overs in the fridge was the remains of the red lentils with cabbage and tomato.

I sneaked a taste and changed my mind about lunch–it was too good to let go!

It needed something green to go with it–THE CABBAGE!

1 medium savoy cabbage (red drumheads are not always easy to find)–outer leaves removed, quartered, cored and halved

2 apples–peeled, quartered, cored and halved

2 tbs olive oil

10 juniper berries–lightly crushed with the flat of a knife

5 fl oz white wine

salt

plenty of black pepper

  • Pour the oil into a shallow pan (with a lid) and arrange the cabbage and apple “eighths” prettily.
  • Squash the juniper berries with the flat of a knife and sprinkle them over and in between.
  • Sprinkle the wine over, a good grinding of the pepper mill and some salt.

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  • Cover the pan and cook for about 30 minutes.

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  • Pick a leaf of cabbage from the pan and test for doneness.
  • Serve hot.
  • The fridge is looking tidier–should be no problem finding the frittatta tomorrow…
  • Left-overs rule, OK?

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Back in the days before enlightenment–BE or rather BMbefore Meredithdespairing black moods regularly followed perceived failure, chez-moi.

“Buck up”–my mother used to say—“failure is character building”!

“Don’t make it worse, Ma!”

The first night of the RSC’s  production of King Lear in the 1976 Stratford season was one such occasion.

Donald Sinden (Lear) and Judi Dench (Regan) among the cast.

I was playing Edmund, the bastard son of Gloucester.

The famous speech/soliliquy which ends–“Now God–stand up for bastards!” had gone over well during the three weeks (too long) of previews, with some morale-boosting laughs.

Come press night, the first 7 or 8 rows of critics sit stony-faced–they’d seen King Lear countless times.

Not a squeak, not a giggle and no visible smiles–just an aggressive (as I heard it) silence.

I am unnerved and later fluff a line.

The result is–Black Dog!

Poor proud parents have to endure a post-play drink with an inconsolable zombie son.

They do get to meet Judi Dench–ebullient as ever; though I was never sure she enjoyed playing Regan!

Scroll down the years to last night.

I tried out a new dish involving butternut squash and green split peas.

Failure!

The peas wouldn’t soften and the squash was tough.

The spicy sauce wasn’t bad, but the time it had all taken to cook was demoralizing.

Was I downhearted? Of course not! It’s PM now, I’m forty years older–that would be silly!

I awoke this morning, though, in need for something completely different: lamb chops? Sausages?

I drove to Lautrec’s Friday market.

Sausages–fait mason [made by the butcher]–won the day and here is the result:

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A one pot dish inspired by a recipe in the second Riverford Farm cookbook.

Celery and fennel make for good companions with the modest amount of sausage.

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Kale or Swiss chard can substitute for the spinach–or you can just  omit the greens.

for 3/4

1 tbsp olive oil

450gm/1 lb good quality pork sausages

50 gm/2oz bacon–diced

2 medium onions–sliced

2 garlic cloves–pulped in a little salt

8oz celery–cut into inch-size chunks

1 large fennel bulb–outer leaves removed, halved vertically and then each half carefully divided into eight pieces. (This helps them become tender quicker!)

2 bay leaves 

a good sprig of fresh thyme

1 tbs tomato concentrate

100ml red wine–a small wine glass

600ml stock–I use organic vegetable stock cubes

4 tsp dijon mustard

8oz spinach–washed and thick stems removed

400gms cooked white beans from a tin [can] or jar

salt and pepper

  • Sauté the sausages and bacon in the olive oil for 10 minutes in a pan large enough to hold all the ingredients.
  • Remove the sausages to a plate.
  • Sauté the onions and garlic gently in the pan until the onions soften and turn opaque; take care not to let them burn on the bottom of the pan.

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  • Add the fennel, the celery, tomato concentrate and herbs

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  • Turn everything over thoroughly.

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  • Add the red wine and mix again, scraping up the good bits as you go!
  • Add the stock, the saved sausages and stir in the mustard.
  • Bring the pan to a simmer and leave it to bubble gently for about 20 minutes.

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  • Check the seasoning. I found it didn’t require added salt–the bacon and stock cube were sufficiently salty–but added some freshly-milled black pepper.
  • Spread the greens over the top of the dish and leave them for ten minutes to start dissolving into it. (Cover the pan if you feel the need).IMG_1218
  • Gently stir in the greens and add the beans.
  • Cook for a further few minutes to heat through.

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We had the dish for lunch served over half a baked sweet potato each.

Success!

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This recipe is from my new book,  Healthy Eating for Life.

I was going to try out a new dish using the cooked Puy lentils left over from lunch yesterday, but changed my mind–and settled on this soupy supper instead.

I found a small cabbage sitting in the fridge, patiently waiting its turn…

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Red lentils with cabbage and tomatoes

Rose Elliott adapted this from a recipe in Julie Sahni’s Classic Indian Vegetarian Cookery. I have tweaked it a bit more.

for 4

250gms/8oz red lentils

2 1/4 pints/1300ml stock–I use organic vegetable stock cubes

1/3 tsp turmeric

375gms/12oz tinned [canned] tomatoes–chopped

  • Rinse the lentils thoroughly.
  • Put them in a saucepan with the stock and the turmeric and bring up to the boil.
  • Cook at a gentle simmer for 45 minutes.
  • Add the chopped tomatoes then set aside.

1 tbsp olive oil

1 1/2 tsp black mustard seeds

1 tbsp curry powder–(your choice how hot!)

onion–chopped

a small cabbage–outer leaves removed, quartered, cored and shredded

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Juice of half a lemon

salt and pepper

Parsley or better still fresh coriander–chopped to sprinkle over

  • Heat the oil in a new pan.
  • Add the mustard seeds and cook them until they start to pop–a couple of minutes.
  • Mix in the curry powder.

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  • Add the onion and the cabbage and mix everything together well.

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  • Cover the pan and cook for 5 minutes.
  • Add the wilted cabbage to the lentils.
  • Bring the mixture up to the simmer.
  • Leave it to simmer gently for 20 minutes.
  • Season to taste with salt and pepper.
  • Stir in the lemon juice.

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  • Sprinkle over the parsley or coriander (none available chez nous ce soir!)

It’s best served hot.

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Described as ‘street food‘ in Yotem Ottolenghi’s cookbook Jerusalem, this is a marriage of simple ingredients made in heaven–i.e., chickpeas and cumin go together like a horse and carriage.

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I have some small leaf spinach in the fridge which needs to be eaten and Meredith’s still on the detox.

Spinach salad–I’m thinking.

No bacon though–one way to liven up raw spinach.

No feta/goat’s cheese either–another.

Nuts–yes, some cob nuts or walnuts roasted would do it.

Then I remember spotting Balilah street food in the book.

Eureka! Well, overstated perhaps, but turns out to be a good idea.

Dress the spinach leaves beforehand and add a pile of Balilah to the green expanse and you have a simple but delicious lunch.

450 gms cooked chickpeas–from a bottle preferably, but tinned [canned] if not

4 tbs spring [scallions] or red onions–sliced thinly

1 small lemon–peeled and de-pithed; then sliced as thin as possible with a sharp knife. Take your time–it’s worth it to get the freshness without too much tooth-grinding tartness at one bite

2.5 tsp ground cumin

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3 tbs olive oil (best quality possible)

salt and pepper

Drain the chickpeas from the jar/tin and reheat them gently in a little water (to keep them from drying out as they are warmed).

Drain, put in a bowl, add the olive oil and turn the chickpeas over in the oil.

Add the onion, cumin, lemon, salt and pepper and mix thoroughly.

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The spinach

3 good handfuls of young, small-leafed spinach (usually more tender for  eating raw)–washed and spun dry and laid out in a large salad bowl

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The vinaigrette:

Pulp a peeled garlic clove in a pinch of salt.

Mix in half a teaspoon of Dijon mustard.

Add a tablespoon of red wine vinegar and mix to a paste.

Add three or four tablespoons of olive oil.

Whisk together.

Pour a couple of tablespoons over the spinach and turn it over thoroughly.

Add the pile of Balilah to the centre of the green sward.

Serve.

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I published this recipe on the blog early on and am revisiting it tonight by special request.

It has been a favorite for over 30 years chez nous, and is a tasty standby for a rainy, grey day when going anywhere for supplies is the last thing you feel like doing.

Meredith, on her detox for a week, requested this dish, so we’re having it tonight with broccoli, (simply steamed, drizzled with olive oil, and a squeeze of lemon) and a some brown basmati rice.

It’s an Indian  Dal-but known in our house as ‘comfort lentils’.

This is from my first cook book Delicious Dishes for Diabetics.

for 4

500 g/1 lb red lentils

1 litre/1¾ pints/4 cups stock (I use an organic vegetable stock cube per 500 ml of water)

4 tbsp vegetable oil (I use olive oil.)

1 medium onion – chopped

1 tsp coriander seeds – pounded in a mortar and pestle

1½ tsp cumin seeds – pounded in a mortar and pestle

1 tsp garam masala

½ tsp chilli powder

  • Rinse the lentils very thoroughly – until the water shows clear.
  • Put them in a saucepan with the stock and bring gently to the boil.
  • Turn the heat down to low and let them simmer, covered, stirring from time to time.
  • They are done when a small puddle floats on the top.
  • Turn them off.
  • Heat the oil in a small frying pan.
  • Add the onion and fry gently until it colours nicely.
  • Add the spices and mix them in well.
  • Cook for a couple of minutes longer to release the aroma.
  • Add the cooked spices and the onion to the lentils and mix in thoroughly.
  • Heat through and serve.

Our Sikh friend, Tari, affectionately dubbed the ‘Carefree Cook’,  never panics when people turn up unexpectedly at mealtime. He looks to see how many extra guests are coming through the door and adds more water to the dal accordingly!

If there is dal left over, save it for another occasion! Form the cold dal into little burger shapes, coat with some chickpea or whole wheat flour and fry lightly in some hot oil.

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Good to be back!

A winter soup to welcome the New Year and re-open the blog, which has been virtually on hold while Healthy Eating for Life got launched.

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Not a great “looker” this soup, so Madame La Photographe added a touch of parsley.

Making this is a lovely long process, something to do on a cold rainy afternoon–like today.

Not a lot of work involved–most of the time the soup chugs away on its own on top of the stove .

Adapted from the inimitable and recently deceased Marcella Hazan, it sometimes features cooked sausages*–not here though.

Meredith is on a short de-tox regime–though she said not to worry about the ounce of smoked bacon that helps deepen the taste.

I’m writing this while it chugs.

4 tbls olive oil

1/2 a medium onion–chopped

2 garlic cloves–chopped

1 oz/25 gms smoked bacon–diced

1 lb/450 gms red cabbage–quartered (core sliced off) and roughly sliced

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1 celery stick–chopped

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3 medium tomatoes (tinned are best this time of the year)–chopped

1 tsp fresh thyme

1.25 pints stock–I use organic vegetable stock cubes

1.5 tsp salt

500 gms/18 oz cooked white beans (jar or tinned [canned]) drained–a rough figure depending on the tin/jar.

  • Heat the oil in a large saucepan and sauté the onion, garlic and bacon until they start to color–about twenty minutes.

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  • Add the tomatoes, cabbage and celery and mix thoroughly.
  • Allow the cabbage to soften completely–about 30 minutes.
  • Add the salt and stock, stir in and cover the pot.
  • Cook this on a very low heat, this is the chugging stage (you’ll hear it chugging!), for two hours– longer if you like!

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  • Then add half the beans–puréed–and stir them in.

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  • Cook on for ten minutes to heat them through before adding the rest of the beans.

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Stir them, cover the pan and let it chug-chug for 10 to 15 minutes longer.

Now the authentic Italian bit!

  • Lightly color two peeled and crushed garlic cloves in four tablespoons of olive oil.

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  • Off the heat add a teaspoon of chopped fresh rosemary.

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  • Pour the oil through a metal sieve into the soup and let it absorb the flavors while it cooks a further ten minutes.

* The sausages, if using, are browned in a separate pan and added, cut into chunks, after the main two hour “chug”!

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We are back in France after a week in London to launch my new book Healthy Eating for Life.

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Friends from N-S-E & W–some we hadn’t seen for years–came to Blenheim Crescent in Notting Hill on a rainy night last Thursday and were bemused and happy to meet others they themselves hadn’t seen for ages.

The publishing team from Constable and Robinson were out in force; marshaled by my editor Judith Mitchell they sailed round with plates of nibbles–cooked by resident cook Clara Grace Paul from recipes in my book.

It became more than just a launch party–it was a reunion.

In fact it was a blast!

Even the bookshop seriously underestimating the number of books they’d need in place–(they sold out just over half way through)–didn’t dampen the spirits!

Magician Meredith, the mistress of ceremonies, had surpassed herself–the book was on its way!

Next day I decided to give us/me a treat.

I bought Yotam Ottolenghi and Sami Tamimi’s newish cookbook.

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These two cooks, born on opposite sides in the divided city (one Israeli, the other Palestinian), met in London and have created a revolution in dining and eating.

Their food manages to be sumptuous and simple at the same time–and eminently cookable at home.

On Saturday the treat was extended to lunch at their small restaurant in Islington.

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They don’t take bookings so you wait in line;

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Forty minutes in our case–but we didn’t mind.

We passed the time staring at the heaving counter of prepared salads, trying to make up our minds what to eat–a mouth watering, morale-boosting exercise!

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“Please come forward–we can seat you now”

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We’d made our choices–here are mine–and settled down to enjoy our treats.

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top left to right: char-grilled broccoli with chili, butter bean hummus with caramalised red onions, green beans and mangetout with red salad leaves, grilled aubergine rounds topped with tahini!

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one happy punter sits opposite another!

…and did we!

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